From Climbing · Holly Yu Tung Chen · · 1m 50s
Free Soloing Competition Risks
Competitive free soloing on low-angle terrain risks lives but attracts climbers seeking challenge.
In brief
Competitive free soloing on low-angle terrain risks lives but attracts climbers seeking challenge. Michael Reese broke the First Flatiron's fastest known time without ropes in 7 minutes 51 seconds, raising questions about safety and competition in free soloing. Originally reported by Climbing.
Competitive Free Soloing Risks
Competitive free soloing on low-angle terrain risks lives but attracts climbers seeking challenge.
Michael Reese's Record
Michael Reese broke the First Flatiron’s fastest known time (FKT) from base to summit in 7 minutes 51 seconds without ropes.
First Flatiron Details
The First Flatiron is a 1,000ft red sandstone route with a base 1.3 miles from trailhead.
Climbers' Motivation
Reese climbed the First Flatiron 800 times, believing risk is never zero but smaller than most imagine.
Satan's Minions Club
The Satan’s Minions Scrambling Club started in 2001 and has 22 years of speed records.
Record History
The club’s records began in the 1980s with Stefan Griebel holding every known time.
Reese's Training
Reese trained for the First Flatiron after pandemic canceled his triathlon plans.
Safety Concerns
Six fatalities occurred in Flatirons since 2016, all involving free soloists without speed climbing.
Inexperienced Climbers
A 20-year-old fell 100 feet without headlamp during a free solo in 2025.
Social Media Role
Reese and others do not prioritize social media for free soloing records.
Record Impact
Breaking records inspires climbers but does not create toxic competition.
Risk Acceptance
Climbers accept risk as part of the sport but recognize it is never entirely their own.
Bailee Mulholland's Death
Bailee Mulholland died free soloing a 5.4 route on Ypsilon Mountain in 2023.
Conclusion
The risk of free soloing remains personal but the grief of loss affects everyone.
The key point
Michael Reese broke the First Flatiron's fastest known time without ropes in 7 minutes 51 seconds, raising questions about safety and competition in free soloing.
