From Climbing · Owen Clarke · · 1m 50s
Jakob Schubert Makes History With World's First 5.15d Repeat
Jakob Schubert repeats DNA, becoming first to climb world's hardest 5.15d route twice.
In brief
Jakob Schubert repeats DNA, becoming first to climb world's hardest 5.15d route twice. Jakob Schubert became the first climber to repeat a proposed 5.15d route, DNA, in France's Verdon Gorge. Originally reported by Climbing.
First 5.15d Repeat
Jakob Schubert made the world's first confirmed 5.15d route DNA in France's Verdon Gorge.
“I'm really happy, i would never trade this story for anything.”
Historic Achievement
Schubert became first to repeat a proposed 5.15d route and the first to climb two 5.15d lines.
“I think every [5.15d] climber would name a different route as the hardest for them.”
The Route
DNA is a 55-meter route in France's Verdon Gorge that Schubert repeated after Seb Bouin first climbed it in 2022.
“It's a very morphological route, the shorter you are, the harder the route gets.”
Schubert's Approach
Schubert adjusted beta for DNA from Bouin's first ascent due to his shorter height and climbing style.
“I'm only borderline tall enough, the shorter you are, the harder the route gets.”
Livestreamed Success
Schubert livestreamed his DNA ascent, attracting 180,000 viewers during the attempt.
“Some people read 'ninth live attempt' on youtube, and think this is basically my ninth try on the route.”
Preparation Time
Schubert spent at least 30 days on DNA across multiple trips since first trying it in 2024.
“I've never done these crazy kneebars before, you really have to learn them on dna.”
The Mental Challenge
Schubert described the mental preparation and planning required to repeat DNA as a significant part of the process.
“You don't see all the work i've put in before i even did any redpoint tries.”
Bouin's Role
Schubert credited Bouin's transparency and video footage for helping him project DNA effectively.
“We had the video from seb, and he did a crazy job checking out the perfect beta for the route.”
The Livestream Impact
Schubert's livestream attracted positive comments from viewers, including Adam Ondra's congratulations.
“I stopped everything to see the attempt, and i'm so grateful for the emotions you made all of us feel!”
Future Plans
Schubert plans to project Exodia, the world's hardest boulder problem, and Excalibur, a 5.15c route.
“I don't know how many more times i'm going to try [5.15d].”
Next Steps
Schubert may focus on the 2028 Olympics instead of more 5.15d routes due to time constraints.
“That's something i obviously have to work hard for, which means a little bit less time for huge projects like this.”
The Hardest Route
Schubert believes DNA is the hardest 5.15d route for him, with the process potentially getting easier.
“Like i said, i have a feeling like maybe dna is actually the hardest [5.15d] for me and the process could get a bit easier.”
The 5.15d Grade
The 5.15d grade remains subjective, with different climbers naming different routes as the hardest.
“Every [5.15d] climber would name a different route as the hardest for them.”
The short version
Jakob Schubert became the first climber to repeat a proposed 5.15d route, DNA, in France's Verdon Gorge.
