From Climbing · Sam MacIlwaine · · 2m
Justin Salas Sets Blind Climbing Record
Justin Salas becomes first blind climber to send 5.13c route after Olympic exclusion.
In brief
Justin Salas becomes first blind climber to send 5.13c route after Olympic exclusion. Justin Salas, a visually impaired climber, sent America's Most Wanted (5.13c) after being excluded from the 2028 Paralympics. Originally reported by Climbing.
Justin Salas
Justin Salas, a 33-year-old American climber, became the first visually impaired athlete to climb 5.13c.
“I feel completely blind.”
Olympic Exclusion
Salas was excluded from the 2028 Paralympics four months before sending America's Most Wanted.
“I got pushed out of the Olympics.”
America's Most Wanted
America's Most Wanted (5.13c) is a 35-foot cave climb at Mount Charleston near Las Vegas.
“The movement’s crazy rad.”
Climbing Background
Salas started climbing at 21 and has sent over 20 double-digit boulders, winning six national titles.
“I ticked my first v11, worm turns in joe’s valley, in 2018 after just three years of climbing.”
Vision Loss
Salas developed bilateral optic atrophy at age 14, retaining peripheral vision but no central vision.
“I have no central vision in either eye.”
Climbing Challenge
Salas had to memorize holds and anticipate quickdraw directions for America's Most Wanted.
“I have to memorize everything.”
Redpoint Crux
The redpoint crux required a single V7 move with a three-finger drag and full wingspan.
“It’s a super accuracy-dependent move.”
Overcoming Failure
Salas fell 15 times before successfully completing the redpoint crux with Cam Hörst's help.
“I fell there many, many, many dozens of times.”
Olympic Impact
Salas was excluded from the 2028 Paralympics because the B2 category was not included.
“It hit me really, really hard.”
Climbing Progress
Salas sent America's Most Wanted after four months of preparation following Olympic exclusion.
“I was like, 'I just want to go climb the things that are exciting to me that look rad.'”
Climbing Technique
Salas uses tapping with his feet to locate holds and feels the grip before committing.
“Each tap, if you can imagine, is like a drop in a puddle.”
Mental Challenge
Salas experienced a blackout moment during the redpoint crux, unable to visualize the move.
“I legit have a blackout moment right there.”
Olympic Future
Salas plans to compete in the 2032 Paralympics if the B2 category is no longer excluded.
“I’m going to be in my late thirties then, and I might not even be competitive.”
Climbing Community
Salas is the first blind climber to send 5.13c, a record for visually impaired athletes.
“I think this is it.”
Future Goals
Salas aims to climb 5.14s after completing America's Most Wanted.
“I think you have so much more to give than that route, dude.”
Conclusion
Salas successfully sent America's Most Wanted, becoming the first blind climber to send 5.13c.
“It’s really an absolute blessing to get it done.”
In short
Justin Salas, a visually impaired climber, sent America's Most Wanted (5.13c) after being excluded from the 2028 Paralympics.
