From Climbing · Natalie Berry · · 2m
Lara Neumeier First Female Ascent of Rhapsody
Lara Neumeier becomes first woman to climb British E11 grade Rhapsody (E11 7a/5.14c) at Dumbarton Rock, Scotland.
In brief
Lara Neumeier becomes first woman to climb British E11 grade Rhapsody (E11 7a/5.14c) at Dumbarton Rock, Scotland. Lara Neumeier made the first female ascent of Rhapsody (E11 7a/5.14c), becoming the fifth woman to climb a 5.14c trad route and first woman to reach the British E11 grade. Originally reported by Climbing.
First Female Ascent
Lara Neumeier made the first female ascent of Rhapsody (E11 7a/5.14c) at Dumbarton Rock, Scotland on October 7, 2026.
Historic Route
Rhapsody is a 35-meter trad line with a 7c+/5.13a hand crack and a 10-meter runout, graded E11 7a/5.14c.
First Woman to Reach E11
Neumeier became the fifth woman to climb a 5.14c trad route, joining Beth Rodden, Barbara Zangerl, Hazel Findlay, and Emma Twyford.
Historic Significance
Rhapsody was established by Dave MacLeod in 2006 as the world’s first E11 grade, with Neumeier being the first woman to climb it.
Training and Preparation
Neumeier trained with Austrian climber Nemuel 'Nemo' Feurle over two visits to Scotland, climbing for five days on top rope before lead attempts.
The Whippers
Rhapsody carries potential for huge 60 to 70-foot whippers, with Neumeier taking 20-30 falls during her attempt.
Climbing Challenges
Neumeier described the top section as physically and mentally challenging, with small footholds that made her feel like she was going to slip.
Route Comparison
Rhapsody is longer than Meltdown and has a crux at the top, making it harder than Magic Line in Yosemite.
Historic Context
Dumbarton Rock is a 240-foot volcanic basalt plug with a 1,500-year-old castle, known for hard trad climbing.
Celebration
Neumeier celebrated with pizza, whisky, and darts at a Scottish pub after her ascent.
Historic Achievement
Neumeier became the first woman to climb the British E11 grade, joining a small group of women who have reached this level.
Why Few Women Attempt
Rhapsody is known for being scary with big whippers, but Neumeier says the core climbing community knows it’s safe now.
Future Plans
Neumeier plans to find another hard trad line for next year after her success with Rhapsody.
Historic Impact
Rhapsody has inspired many climbers, with Neumeier noting it’s a special place for world-class hard climbing.
The Route
Rhapsody involves an easy slab up to a 7c+/5.13a hand crack, followed by a 10-meter runout and a V11/8A crux headwall sequence.
The one thing
Lara Neumeier made the first female ascent of Rhapsody (E11 7a/5.14c), becoming the fifth woman to climb a 5.14c trad route and first woman to reach the British E11 grade.
