From Climbing · Maya Silver · · 2m
Leo Cea: Youngest to Climb 9a+
13-year-old Leo Cea redpoints 9a+ route in Spain, sparking record debate.
In brief
13-year-old Leo Cea redpoints 9a+ route in Spain, sparking record debate. Chilean-German teenager Leo Cea became one of the youngest climbers to reach 9a+ grade on No Pain No Gain route in Spain, sharing the record with other young climbers. Originally reported by Climbing.
Leo Cea's Historic Ascent
Chilean-German teenager Leo Cea reached the top of No Pain No Gain route in Rodellar, Spain on September 2, 2026.
“No Pain No Gain”
Age and Record Debate
Leo, 13 years, 9 months, and 8 days old, claims to be youngest to climb 9a+ but faces competition from other climbers.
“I'd prefer to share the record with Ashima Shiraishi and Andrea Chellaris”
Route History
No Pain No Gain was first climbed by Spanish climber Dani Fuertes on June 6, 2017, with 10 ascents since then.
“¡de las mejores vías que hice!”
Grade Consensus
80% of climbers grade No Pain No Gain as 9a+, with only two suggesting a downgrade to 9a.
“one of the best routes i've ever done”
Competing Claims
Italian 12-year-old Andrea Chellaris climbed Pure Dreaming Plus (9a+) in November 2022, making Leo two months older at the time of ascent.
“Pure Dreaming Plus”
Leo's Perspective
Leo prefers to share the record with Ashima Shiraishi and Andrea Chellaris, who also climbed at age 13.
“I'd prefer to share the record with Ashima Shiraishi and Andrea Chellaris”
Training and Progress
Leo spent 12 sessions working on No Pain No Gain, with his first attempt in June 2026 and send on September 2.
“No Pain No Gain”
Family Support
Leo's father René organized logistics, training, and support for the climb, emphasizing emotional encouragement over physical help.
“It's about helping create an environment where leo can enjoy himself”
Climbing Background
Leo grew up in Chile but moved to Germany at age six months, now living in Erlangen with his family.
“I was born in germany in 2012”
Future Goals
Leo aims to qualify for youth World Cups and Olympic Games, with no specific timeline for climbing 9b or 9c.
“I want to see lots of places and climbing areas”
Record Context
The record for youngest 9a+ climber is disputed due to varying interpretations of grade and age calculations.
“Ashima was misinformed about the 9a grade”
Climbing Philosophy
Leo emphasizes the importance of climbing as a lifestyle over a sport, with family and community support.
“It's something we live together as a family experience”
Physical Challenge
Leo described intense physical demands of the route, including arm fatigue and leg exhaustion during the climb.
“Your arms get incredibly pumped especially heading into the final part of the main roof”
Family Involvement
Leo's younger brother Inti, 10 years old, filmed the climb on a fixed line during the ascent.
“Inti, who is 10 years old and a budding climber himself”
Climbing Community
The climbing community has a strong consensus on the grade of No Pain No Gain, with 80% aligning with 9a+.
“eighty percent of ascensionists align with 9a”
Next Steps
Leo plans to continue climbing and competing, with goals to reach higher grades and international competitions.
“I want to see lots of places and climbing areas”
What matters most
Chilean-German teenager Leo Cea became one of the youngest climbers to reach 9a+ grade on No Pain No Gain route in Spain, sharing the record with other young climbers.
