From Climbing · Holly Yu Tung Chen · · 2m
Michael Reese Beats Dean Potter's Half Dome Speed Record
Michael Reese free solos Snake Dike in 11 minutes 55 seconds, breaking Dean Potter's 11-year Half Dome speed record.
In brief
Michael Reese free solos Snake Dike in 11 minutes 55 seconds, breaking Dean Potter's 11-year Half Dome speed record. Michael Reese set a new Half Dome speed record by free soloing Snake Dike in 11 minutes 55 seconds, shaving six minutes off Dean Potter's 2015 record. Originally reported by Climbing.
Record Breaker
Michael Reese, a 32-year-old climber from Boulder, shaved six minutes from Dean Potter's Half Dome speed record.
The Record
Reese climbed Yosemite's Half Dome in 1 hour 12 minutes 58 seconds, free soloing Snake Dike (5.7 R; 800ft).
Previous Record
Dean Potter set the record on May 3, 2015, but died 13 days later in a wingsuit accident.
Training Process
Reese practiced Snake Dike 16 times over five years, including 8 free solos and 8 rope runs.
The Crux
Reese completed Snake Dike in 10 minutes 55 seconds, overcoming lactic acid and dehydration.
Why It Took So Long
The Grizzly Gully approach is a technical route with steep sections and slabs, requiring constant gear changes.
Safety First
Reese prioritized safety, bailing if a party was in the crux section but continuing otherwise.
The Shoes
Reese wore the same Five Ten Tennies shoes Dean Potter used, bought in 2021 before they went out of production.
Why No One Beat It Before
The Grizzly Gully-Snake Dike line is faster than shortcuts through forests or cables due to its direct route.
Record Duration
Reese expects the record to last at least a few years, but it could be broken by a climber comfortable with Snake Dike.
The Aftermath
Reese ran to the summit, breathing hard, and was greeted by a party who asked, 'What did you do?'
The Shoes
Reese wore the Five Ten Tennies, the same shoes Dean Potter used, bought in 2021 before they went out of production.
The Record's Significance
The record shows that the fastest way to Half Dome is by climbing, not running around the route.
The Future
Reese believes the record will be broken by someone comfortable with Snake Dike, but it could last years.
At a glance
Michael Reese set a new Half Dome speed record by free soloing Snake Dike in 11 minutes 55 seconds, shaving six minutes off Dean Potter's 2015 record.
