From Climbing · Matt Samet · · 1m 50s
Scarpa Blackbird: Most Expensive Climbing Shoe
Scarpa Blackbird offers unmatched edging precision at $289, ideal for technical rock climbs.
In brief
Scarpa Blackbird offers unmatched edging precision at $289, ideal for technical rock climbs. The Scarpa Blackbird, priced at $289, provides superior edging support for technical rock climbs but challenges smearing on flat holds. Originally reported by Climbing.
Scarpa Blackbird Review
The Scarpa Blackbird is the most expensive climbing shoe at $289, designed for precise edging on technical rock routes.
“The edging power on the Blackbird is off the charts, with the best support and stability on square-cut edges of any shoe I’ve worn”
Price and Design
At $289, the Blackbird features a carbon-fiber-enhanced midsole, Alcantara leather lining, and 3.5mm Vibram XS Grip 2 rubber.
Testing Methodology
Lead tester Matt Samet evaluated the Blackbird on gym routes up to 5.13 granite tech in Colorado.
Edging Performance
The Blackbird excels on micro-edging with zero fatigue on steep granite routes and tiny crimps.
“The edging power on the Blackbird is off the charts, with the best support and stability on square-cut edges of any shoe I’ve worn”
Smearing Challenges
The Blackbird struggles with smearing on flat or dishy gym holds due to its rigid midsole.
Heel Hooking
The Blackbird’s squishy heel cup delivers exceptional support for heel hooks on arêtes and narrow holds.
“Heel hooking in the Blackbird was amazing, 10/10, with the fore-aft stiffness pairing with a squishy, narrow, vacuum-fit heel cup”
Durability
The Blackbird’s 3.5mm Vibram XS Grip 2 rubber withstands sharp granite and multiple resoles without significant wear.
Sizing and Fit
The Blackbird fits narrow feet best, with minimal stretch but excellent conformity for most foot types.
Price Justification
At $289, the Blackbird is a premium investment for climbers needing precise edging on long technical pitches.
Pros and Cons
The Blackbird offers peerless micro-edge precision but challenges smearing on flat holds and requires visual feedback for footholds.
Climbing Applications
The Blackbird excels on steep terrain with minimal crimps, vertical limestone, and arête climbing.
Final Verdict
For climbers prioritizing edging precision, the Blackbird is worth $289 despite its steep price and limited smearing capabilities.
Price and Value
The Blackbird’s $289 price tag reflects its durability, precision, and suitability for technical rock climbing.
The essence
The Scarpa Blackbird, priced at $289, provides superior edging support for technical rock climbs but challenges smearing on flat holds.
