From Climbing · John Middendorf · · 2m
Yosemite's Most Miserable Shiver Bivy
Three climbers trapped in a blizzard on Half Dome's South Face face freezing death before helicopter rescue.
In brief
Three climbers trapped in a blizzard on Half Dome's South Face face freezing death before helicopter rescue. Three climbers survived a deadly blizzard on Yosemite's Half Dome South Face after a helicopter rescue. Originally reported by Climbing.
Winter 1986 Half Dome Attempt
In early 1986, three experienced climbers planned a winter solo attempt on Half Dome's South Face, a 2,000-foot wall known for failures.
The Prow Solo Challenge
Bob wanted to solo The Prow, a classic aid line on Washington Column, but the climber warned him not to get rescued.
South Face Winter Risks
The South Face had a history of failures, including a 1968 storm that trapped Warren Harding and Galen Rowell for days.
Team Formation
Mike Corbett and Steve Bosque, two Yosemite regulars, asked the author to join their winter attempt for his 40th big wall climb.
The Long Approach
The author carried 100-plus pounds of gear for the eight-mile climb, staggering after 31,000 staggers.
The Great Escape Hatch
The eighth pitch, called 'The Great Escape Hatch,' was a contortionist's dream with a gaping Bombay chimney.
The Tri-Clops Descent
The day's fourth pitch led to The Tri-Clops, three large rock indentations where Mike and the author set up a bivy at The Ledge.
Mike's Fall
Mike popped a bat-hook and took a 20- or 30-foot fall, fracturing his finger while trying to grab the previous bat-hook.
The Storm Begins
On Friday evening, the storm intensified with heavy rain, high winds, and Steve's ledge collapsing.
The Ledge Crisis
The author's ledge began to slip due to icy conditions, threatening to dump him into the void.
Frozen Survival
By Saturday morning, temperatures dropped, rain turned to icy BBs, and gear began to freeze solid.
The Frozen Wall
The ice-covered wall made ropes frozen to the wall, preventing any rescue or movement.
Waiting for Help
The climbers waited in their ledges as the storm raged, counting to 22,000 in sets of 100 to stay warm.
The Avalanche
As the sun warmed the ice, avalanches of soft chunks crashed down on the climbers.
Helicopter Rescue
A helicopter from LeMoore Naval Air Station rescued the climbers after a tense 100-foot hover.
Aftermath
The climbers were saved by a coordinated rescue effort involving over 30 people, including medics and helicopter crews.
The big picture
Three climbers survived a deadly blizzard on Yosemite's Half Dome South Face after a helicopter rescue.
