The photographer who shaped the sixties from 5,000 miles away

Sam Haskins created iconic 1960s photobooks from Johannesburg, not London, redefining how photographers approached fashion.

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The photographer who shaped the sixties from 5,000 miles away

Sam Haskins created iconic 1960s photobooks from Johannesburg, not London, redefining how photographers approached fashion.

In brief

Sam Haskins created iconic 1960s photobooks from Johannesburg, not London, redefining how photographers approached fashion. Sam Haskins proved that creative innovation doesn't require being at the center of the action. Working from Johannesburg, he created influential photobooks that shaped 1960s fashion photography…

The photographer who shaped the sixties

The cover image for Five Girls (1962), showing a woman in profile wearing a wide-brimmed hat against a plain background.

Sam Haskins created iconic photobooks that defined 1960s fashion photography. But he wasn't in London or Paris. He was working 5,000 miles away in Johannesburg, South Africa.

Three books that changed everything

The cover image for Cowboy Kate & Other Stories (1964), a close-up portrait of a woman in a black hat with tousled blonde hair falling across one eye.

Five Girls (1962), Cowboy Kate & Other Stories (1964), and November Girl (1967) shaped how a generation of photographers approached the female form. All created from his South African studio.

Working without the usual advantages

A nude woman crouches on a pale set built with three cut-out window openings, reaching one hand through an opening framed by painted, rope-bound panels.

London photographers had agencies, stylists, and professional models. Haskins had none of that. So he improvised, using non-professional models and building fictional London sets from scratch.

An unconventional path from the start

As a teenager, Haskins trained with a travelling circus and was offered work as a trapeze catcher. He later studied art and photography in Johannesburg before moving to London in 1949 to study at what's now the London College of Communication.

Building a studio in Africa

He returned to Johannesburg in 1953 and ran what was probably Africa's first modern freelance advertising studio, working across still life, industrial, fashion, and aerial photography.

Staying outside the mainstream

Staying outside the mainstream

Even after moving to London in 1968, when Cowboy Kate had sold almost a million copies, Haskins kept the mainstream fashion world at arm's length. He preferred advertising clients and personal projects.

A late return to fashion

Haskins didn't properly re-enter mainstream fashion photography until 2002, in his mid-seventies, after a Yves Saint Laurent shoot in Paris led to assignments in London, New York, Paris, and Tokyo.

Creating until the very end

Haskins died in 2009 in Australia, nine weeks after suffering a stroke on the opening day of his final exhibition. He was still producing and exhibiting new work almost until the end.

At a glance

Sam Haskins proved that creative innovation doesn't require being at the center of the action. Working from Johannesburg, he created influential photobooks that shaped 1960s fashion photography without access to the professional infrastructure of London or Paris.

Read the original on Digital Camera World

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