From Eater · Mary Anne Porto · · 50s
Substitution Culture in Restaurants
Restaurants face backlash over substitutions as customers demand changes to dishes.
In brief
Restaurants face backlash over substitutions as customers demand changes to dishes. Restaurants like Taan and Lom Wong set strict substitution policies to protect their culinary identity. Originally reported by Eater.
Taan's substitution policy
Taan, a Chicago restaurant, limits substitutions to protect Thai culinary identity.
“The first [wave of] immigration of Thai people in Chicago was in the 1970s, and a lot of [Thai] food here still feels like it’s from that time.”
Substitution requests ramp up
Guests increasingly ask for substitutions due to dietary preferences and restrictions.
“It would slow down service and speed, and that was not just affecting us, but the guest experience in many ways.”
Taan's policy shift
Taan implemented a policy stating fish sauce and shrimp paste cannot be removed from dishes.
“Ingredients like fish sauce and shrimp paste are 'the fabric that defines our cuisine,' and therefore, could not be removed from any dishes that include it.”
Lom Wong's award impact
Lom Wong in Phoenix received James Beard Awards and Michelin Bib Gourmand recognition.
“[After the award,] we had more guests than we were used to picking things apart.”
Substitution boundaries
Lom Wong sets clear expectations for substitutions, including no removal of beef or shrimp paste.
“Sunny is our guiding light of cultural context. [She advises, considering if] changing something about a dish compromises the integrity of the dish.”
Vegan options
Taan offers a vegan, gluten-free fried rice as a 'catchall' option for dietary restrictions.
“We make sure that that dish is also really, really good and substantial; it’s not just an appetizer.”
What matters most
Restaurants like Taan and Lom Wong set strict substitution policies to protect their culinary identity.
