From Gripped Magazine · gripped · · 1m 50s
51-year-old climber sends hard new route
Italian route developer Matteo Gambaro completes Zip4ever 5.14d after three years of waiting and a serious back injury.
In brief
Italian route developer Matteo Gambaro completes Zip4ever 5.14d after three years of waiting and a serious back injury. Gambaro's ascent shows that elite climbing performance can extend well into your fifties with patience, recovery, and dedication. Originally reported by Gripped Magazine.
51-year-old sends 5.14d
Italian climber Matteo Gambaro completed Zip4ever, a steep new route he bolted three years ago in Val Tanaro. He had to abandon the project after a back injury but returned this year feeling recovered.
“For two years, I didn't feel up to attempting it, but this year I felt recovered and wanted to give it another go.”
Eight falls on the final move
Gambaro spent several days working the route's difficult sections before making serious attempts in late August. He fell eight times on a small crimp at the crux before finally linking the entire route.
“I fell eight times on the last move on a small crimp. Finally, I managed to send it.”
Route structure and rock quality
Zip4ever begins with a 5.14a power-endurance section, includes a kneebar rest, then features crimps and pockets on what Gambaro calls amazing rock. The final crux move is what repeatedly shut him down.
Three decades of climbing
Gambaro started climbing in 1991 and climbed his first 5.13b within eight months. He spent over two decades competing in lead climbing nationally and internationally, winning the Italian Cup in 2005.
Abyss and other hard sends
Gambaro has climbed multiple 5.14d routes including Abyss at Gorges du Loup, which he repeated in 2012 after Alexandre Chabot's first ascent. He also made the first ascent of Azione Diretta 5.14+ in 2009.
500 routes bolted
Gambaro has bolted around 500 routes total, with over 300 in Val Pennavaire and neighboring valleys. He actively develops new sectors, maintains crags, and prioritizes quality and aesthetic lines.
“Quality remains my priority. Some of them are truly beautiful and aesthetic.”
Climbing's future: respect and responsibility
Gambaro believes climbing will see even harder routes and unimaginable goals, but hopes the sport becomes more responsible and respectful of rock and nature. He sees environmental stewardship as the biggest challenge ahead.
“I hope that it will be even more responsible and respectful of the rock and nature. This is the biggest challenge we have to overcome!”
The bottom line
Gambaro's ascent shows that elite climbing performance can extend well into your fifties with patience, recovery, and dedication.
