From Gripped Magazine · Dave Barnes · · 3m
Alex Megos Climbs Australia's Hardest Route
Alex Megos completes Australia's hardest sport climb after weather gamble.
In brief
Alex Megos completes Australia's hardest sport climb after weather gamble. Alex Megos made Australia's first 9b climb at Cheesedale, Nowra, after two attempts and a weather gamble. Originally reported by Gripped Magazine.
Alex Megos returns to Australia
Alex Megos returned to Australia with unfinished business to climb Slice of Heaven, a grade 37 (9b/5.15b) at Cheesedale near Nowra, south of Sydney.
First attempt falls short
After falling just short on his first visit, Megos returned to Cheesedale in September 2026 to make the first ascent of Australia's hardest established sport climb.
Weather gamble
Megos needed one day with 15 degrees and a strong southerly wind to climb Slice of Heaven after El Niño pushed temperatures higher than normal.
The climb
Slice of Heaven is a 15-meter sandstone route with 20 high intensity moves, starting with a 7c+ boulder problem and featuring a three finger intermediate crux.
Crux move
The crux involves a big left hand stab into a shallow three finger dish, followed by a sketchy toe hook and heel hook to reach the anchor.
Megos' perspective
Megos describes Slice of Heaven as an anti style climb for small and tall climbers due to mandatory reaches and boxy movement.
Bolted by Ryan Sklenica
Ryan Sklenica bolted Slice of Heaven in early 2026, reinforcing only one hold on natural sandstone.
Megos' first visit
Megos first visited Australia in 2013, establishing Retired Extremely Dangerous in the Blue Mountains, then considered a 9a.
Changing scene
Megos noted Australia's climbing scene changed significantly in the last thirteen years, with less potential and hostility to foreigners.
Local support
Ryan Sklenica invited Megos to Nowra, where local climbers opened projects to him and shared their climbing.
Second attempt
Megos returned to Cheesedale in September 2026, falling on the last hard move but returning to try again after a weather gamble.
The climb succeeds
On September 17, 2026, Megos completed Slice of Heaven after a 15-degree day with strong southerly winds.
Why it matters
Slice of Heaven is Australia's first 9b climb and hardest established sport climb, marking a new international conversation for Nowra and Australian climbing.
Local perspective
Local climbers in Nowra believe the area is experiencing a second golden age of climbing after years of stagnation.
What's next
Megos plans to return to Australia, believing in Australian climbing and that Slice of Heaven could change the trajectory of hard climbing in Australia.
The bottom line
Alex Megos made Australia's first 9b climb at Cheesedale, Nowra, after two attempts and a weather gamble.
