From Gripped Magazine · Dave Barnes · · 2m
Alpinists Climb New 1,800-metre M7 WI5 in Karakoram
Canadian climbers summit Sosbun Brakk, a 6,413-metre peak in Pakistan’s Karakoram, after a technical ascent on its north face.
In brief
Canadian climbers summit Sosbun Brakk, a 6,413-metre peak in Pakistan’s Karakoram, after a technical ascent on its north face. Canadian climbers Grant Stewart, Dane Steadman, and Cody Winckler reached the summit of Sosbun Brakk, a 6,413-metre peak in Pakistan’s Karakoram, after a challenging ascent on its north face…
Canadian climbers prepare for Sosbun Brakk
Grant Stewart, Dane Steadman, and Cody Winckler planned a climb on Sosbun Brakk, a 6,413-metre peak in Pakistan’s Karakoram.
“I think I’d seen a picture of the top of the face from trekkers on the Biafo Glacier.”
Sosbun Brakk: Hidden north face
Sosbun Brakk’s north face, up the Sokha Glacier, remains mostly hidden despite being visible from Snow Lake.
“It is funny because you can see it from Snow Lake, but the big face on it, the north face, is mostly hidden. You can’t really see the full thing.”
Military clearance setback
The team lost Pakistani military clearance for their planned route near the Line of Control with India.
“After the team finally obtained permission, the Pakistani military withdrew that clearance at the last minute, forcing them to reconsider their plans.”
Expedition organizer Ali Saltoro
Ali Saltoro, an expedition organizer with experience in the region, helped the team navigate logistics and local knowledge.
“Stewart describes Saltoro as a great person and exceptionally organised.”
Luggage loss and altitude sickness
Winckler’s luggage disappeared during flight to Pakistan, and both climbers suffered from altitude sickness.
“Winckler’s luggage had disappeared during the flight into Pakistan, taking specialised equipment with it, including modified stoves and Ice hammocks designed to as support a tent on tiny ledges.”
First attempt on north face
The team climbed approximately 300 metres of the 1,800-metre north face before descending due to approaching storm.
“After many hours of postholing across deep glacier snow, they reached the route and climbed approximately 300 metres of the 1,800-metre face.”
Challenging route selection
The climbers sought a balance between difficulty and hazard to find a safe route on Sosbun Brakk’s north face.
“We’re trying to find things that are difficult but not overly objectively hazardous. That’s the hard part.”
Snow mushrooms and danger
The team faced falling snow mushrooms that knocked Stewart to the ground and damaged their tent.
“Mushrooms are big, Dr. Seuss kind of features that usually form on steep terrain in places like the Karakoram.”
Summit push and weather challenges
The team reached the summit at 4 p.m., two hours later than planned, after a technical ascent on Sosbun Brakk’s north face.
“They reached the summit at approximately 4 p.m., two hours later than their initial planned turnaround time.”
Descent through storm
The team descended the northwest ridge through a storm, avoiding seracs and avalanches.
“It was completely nuts.”
Glacier crossing and crevasse
Stewart avoided a crevasse by jumping forward after feeling the ground shake.
“I just jumped in time, and it kind of opened up behind my feet like in a film.”
Return to Base Camp
The team returned to Base Camp after a stormy descent, where they were greeted by cooks and celebration.
“They were very excited, dancing, and even baked us a cake.”
Balti porters and local knowledge
Balti porters provided critical support for the expedition, including carrying equipment and food.
“They did an amazing job. I actually can’t believe they can get yaks that far into the mountains.”
Slow and heavy approach
The climbers used a slow and heavy approach to manage risks and recover from weather challenges.
“It’s just taking a bit of extra food/gas and having the capacity to spend time on a mountain and experience it.”
Future exploration in Pakistan
Stewart plans to explore more technical alpine routes in Pakistan’s less-travelled peaks.
“From Sosbun Brakk’s summit, the team could look towards the Ogre, Latoks and Masherbrum.”
Canadian climbing community
Stewart believes Canadian climbers have the skills to pursue ambitious objectives abroad.
“Canada punches above its weight, for sure. There’s a crew of really talented and motivated people here that are out climbing things every year, both at home, but also in the greater ranges.”
The essence
Canadian climbers Grant Stewart, Dane Steadman, and Cody Winckler reached the summit of Sosbun Brakk, a 6,413-metre peak in Pakistan’s Karakoram, after a challenging ascent on its north face.
