From Gripped Magazine · Aaron Pardy · · 1m 50s
Amity Martin Claims First Female Ascent of Dreefee
The elite trad climber sends Red Rock's hardest multi-pitch route after 15 days of attempts with Rachel Ball.
In brief
The elite trad climber sends Red Rock's hardest multi-pitch route after 15 days of attempts with Rachel Ball. Amity Martin became the first woman to climb Dreefee 5.13d, one of Red Rock's most difficult trad routes, proving that sustained effort and patience can overcome seemingly impossible challenges. Originally…
Martin sends Dreefee 5.13d
On April 15, Amity Martin completed the first female ascent of Dreefee, a 12-pitch trad route at Red Rock's Rainbow Wall. She climbed with Rachel Ball over approximately 15 days of redpoint attempts.
“Hard work is a powerful antidote to self-doubt.”
Five pitches of 5.13 grade
Dreefee features five consecutive 5.13 pitches (13b, 13b, 13c, 13c, 13d) with thin gear and insecure climbing. Most climbers find the first 5.13c pitch to be the actual crux despite its lower grade.
Varied climbing styles test skills
Dreefee blends gym-style volume climbing with micro-feature crimping, requiring climbers to master different movement styles. Martin spent weeks learning the nuance of body positions and pacing needed to send all pitches in one day.
Rachel Ball sends same day
Rachel Ball achieved the second ascent of Dreefee on the same day as Martin, using a 5.10 variation on one of the 5.13c pitches. Both climbers persisted through self-doubt and unseasonably hot temperatures.
Elite climbers have freed it
Dreefee was first freed in 2013 and has since been climbed by world-class trad climbers including Alex Honnold, Ben Hanna, and Brad Gobright. Honnold called it an amazing route despite finding the crux easier than expected.
“Amazing route. Hard to say about the grade, but amazing climbing.”
Martin's trad climbing resume
Martin has freed numerous hard multi-pitch trad lines including PreMuir Wall (33 pitches, 5.13c/d), El Niño (25 pitches, 5.13c), and Golden Gate (33 pitches, 5.13a). She is recognized as one of the world's best trad climbers.
What matters most
Amity Martin became the first woman to climb Dreefee 5.13d, one of Red Rock's most difficult trad routes, proving that sustained effort and patience can overcome seemingly impossible challenges.
