From Gripped Magazine · Dave Barnes · · 2m
Austin Hoyt and The World’s Hardest Boulder Problem
Austin Hoyt aims to solve the world’s hardest boulder problem in the Gunks.
In brief
Austin Hoyt aims to solve the world’s hardest boulder problem in the Gunks. Austin Hoyt believes the Fairytale Project in the Gunks could be the world’s hardest boulder problem due to its technical demands. Originally reported by Gripped Magazine.
Austin Hoyt’s dream climb
Austin Hoyt looked at Daniel Woods’ first ascent of The Process for eleven years before climbing it himself.
“I realized that I needed to do this climb.”
Hoyt’s climbing journey
Hoyt was 22 in 2025 when he made The Process, his first V16 and one of his defining ascents.
“The Process showed me that I was capable of things I once thought were impossible.”
Austin’s early life
Austin started climbing through American Ninja Warrior and joined a local gym in New Jersey.
“Yep, you heard that right.”
Family support
Hoyt’s parents supported his climbing journey with crash pads and bouldering trips in the Gunks.
“Everything would be impossible without them.”
First coach and friend
Charlie Schreiber became Hoyt’s first coach and Adam Shahar his close friend and climbing partner.
“One day he would burn me off and the next I’d get him.”
Northeast climbing culture
Hoyt believes the Northeast climbing community feels like one big state where achievements matter equally.
“Everything that happens here feels important.”
The Gunks rock
Hoyt climbs diverse rock types in the Gunks, Vermont and Rumney with private land challenges.
“With so much private land, you truly have to adapt the ‘ask for forgiveness’ mindset.”
Big Bad Wolf V15
Hoyt climbed Big Bad Wolf V15 in October 2024, his first V15 in the Northeast.
“I felt like I graduated.”
Creature From The Black Lagoon V16
Hoyt climbed Creature From The Black Lagoon V16 in Colorado after seven days of trying.
“I climbed through the crux and to the top.”
Lucid Dreaming V15
Hoyt spent two years trying to climb Lucid Dreaming V15 before finally succeeding in 2025.
“Yea, I gained a few followers and my name definitely got bigger, but the money didn’t come rolling in.”
Hoyt’s motivation
Hoyt stays motivated by thinking about hard climbs he wants to do.
“I usually think of a few of the hardest climbs I want to do and use those as my anchors.”
Fairytale Project
Hoyt believes the Fairytale Project in the Gunks could be the world’s hardest boulder problem.
“I really do believe it has potential to be, at least right now, the hardest boulder problem in the world.”
Hoyt’s media work
Hoyt runs VEEZ, a media company producing climbing content and training boards.
“I’m driven by the desire to inspire.”
What’s next for Hoyt
Hoyt aims to inspire the next generation of climbers through Northeast climbing content.
“I’m driven by the desire to inspire.”
The main idea
Austin Hoyt believes the Fairytale Project in the Gunks could be the world’s hardest boulder problem due to its technical demands.
