From Gripped Magazine · Brandon Pullan · · 1m 30s
Buster Martin Climbs World’s First E11
Buster Martin completes world’s first E11 route after five months of sport climbing.
In brief
Buster Martin completes world’s first E11 route after five months of sport climbing. Buster Martin climbed Rhapsody (E11 7a) at Dumbarton Rock, becoming the first to send both a 5.15b sport route and E11 trad route in one calendar year. Originally reported by Gripped Magazine.
Buster Martin’s E11 Ascent
Buster Martin made the ninth ascent of Rhapsody (E11 7a) at Dumbarton Rock near Glasgow, Scotland.
Rhapsody’s Significance
Rhapsody was first climbed by Dave MacLeod in 2.006 and remains one of British trad climbing’s defining challenges.
Martin’s Previous Achievement
Martin completed The Journey 5.15b at Margalef five months prior to this ascent.
First to Achieve Both Grades
Martin became the first climber to send a 5.15b sport route and E11 trad route in the same calendar year.
Unconventional Approach
Martin’s early trad experience included only a handful of routes up to HVS in 2009, 10 and a single E4 in 2025.
Learning Process
Martin described learning to place protection and climb cracks as integral parts of the ascent, not peripheral technical details.
Social Dimension
The ascent day featured conversations with climbing partners and international visitors, reducing intimidation.
Chaos State Experience
Martin described the climb as a chaos state, battling fatigue and fear without panic or complete control.
Next Steps
Martin prioritizes recovery after a year of balancing full-time work with two major climbing objectives.
The bottom line
Buster Martin climbed Rhapsody (E11 7a) at Dumbarton Rock, becoming the first to send both a 5.15b sport route and E11 trad route in one calendar year.
