From Gripped Magazine · gripped · · 1m 10s
Camilla Moroni Sends Dreamcatcher
Italian climber Camilla Moroni sends Dreamcatcher 5.14d after 10 sessions.
In brief
Italian climber Camilla Moroni sends Dreamcatcher 5.14d after 10 sessions. Italian climber Camilla Moroni becomes third woman to climb Dreamcatcher 5.14d after 10 sessions. Originally reported by Gripped Magazine.
Camilla Moroni Sends Dreamcatcher
Italian climber Camilla Moroni sends Dreamcatcher 5.14d in Squamish after 10 sessions.
“Such a perfect line to get into 9a [5.14d] team.”
First Female Ascent
Moroni becomes third woman to climb Dreamcatcher after Americans Paige Claassen and Michaela Kiersch.
“I used to dream about this line, but I always thought it would remain just a dream.”
Dreamcatcher Details
Dreamcatcher is a Canadian sport climb with techy slab, sloper sequences, finger locks and a campus crux.
“The climb combines techy slab, powerful sloper sequences, finger locks and a demanding campus-style crux.”
Moroni's Dream
Moroni once thought Dreamcatcher was only a dream she could never achieve, but now it's real.
“I always thought it would remain just a dream, something that could only exist in my mind.”
Training Shift
After World Cup season, Moroni focused on rebuilding endurance for the first time in two years.
“After wrapping up the World Cup season, I focused on rebuilding my endurance for the first time in two years since the Olympics.”
Early Doubts
Moroni doubted Dreamcatcher was within reach after her hardest previous climb was a soft 8b+ five years ago.
“The hardest route I had ever sent was probably a soft 8b+ in Spain five years ago.”
Progress
Over four sessions, Moroni repeatedly reached the final boulder problem before falling on its campus move.
“For about four sessions, I kept falling at the final boulder on the campus move, but microscopic improvements kept my hope alive.”
Final Send
Moroni sent Dreamcatcher 5.14d on Sept. 24 after 10 sessions, becoming third woman to climb it.
“On Sept. 24, it became a reality.”
The short version
Italian climber Camilla Moroni becomes third woman to climb Dreamcatcher 5.14d after 10 sessions.
