From Gripped Magazine · Aaron Pardy · · 1m 50s
Connor Herson onsights Greenspit 5.14a
The trad climber becomes the first to climb the iconic Italian route without prior knowledge of the moves.
In brief
The trad climber becomes the first to climb the iconic Italian route without prior knowledge of the moves. Connor Herson made the first-ever onsight of Greenspit, one of the world's hardest trad climbs, choosing the riskier style over a flash attempt. Originally reported by Gripped Magazine.
Herson onsights Greenspit 5.14a
Connor Herson became the first climber to onsight Greenspit, a 5.14a trad route in Valle dell'Orco, Italy. Adam Ondra flashed it last year, but Herson's onsight is the first-ever.
“Growing up, it was always a dream of mine to try Greenspit.”
What makes Greenspit so hard
Greenspit is only 12 meters long but sits on a 45-degree overhang, making it short, steep and relentless. The bolts were placed in the 1980s but the route remained unfinished for decades.
Greenspit's history and ascents

Swiss climber Didier Berthod made the first free ascent in 2003, then returned two years later to lead it on-sight. Top climbers like Jernej Kruder, Pete Whittaker, and Tom Randall have since sent it.
Why Herson chose onsight
Herson was with the La Sportiva team, and teammates offered him flash beta. He chose onsight instead because it felt like less pressure, despite the higher difficulty and risk involved.
“I ultimately chose to give an onsight go because it felt like less pressure due to the amount of luck associated with onsighting.”
Different from Prayer for a Friend
Herson's other hard onsight was Prayer for a Friend 5.14a in Washington, which he did unintentionally. Greenspit was deliberate and far more stressful, but also more satisfying.
“This could not have been a more different experience than Prayer for a Friend.”
Herson's elite trad climbing record

Herson made the first free ascent of Triple Direct (30 pitches) and freed The Nose in 9.5 hours with no falls. He also established Drifter's Escape, proposed at 5.15a, which would be the world's first 5.15a trad.
Second onsight of 5.14a grade
This is Herson's second onsight of a 5.14a route. His first was Prayer for a Friend in 2024, a multi-pitch climb in Washington where the final pitch grades 5.14a.
The key point
Connor Herson made the first-ever onsight of Greenspit, one of the world's hardest trad climbs, choosing the riskier style over a flash attempt.





