Filipe Ascensão Belayed Jakob Schubert on DNA 5.15d

Jakob Schubert Climbs DNA

Jakob Schubert completed one of the world’s hardest routes on Oct. 10, 2023.

“Of course, when I see him arrive, I was thinking, ‘Oh, this guy is coming to try DNA, the 9c!’”

Filipe Ascensão Arrives in Verdon

Filipe Ascensão traveled to France to work on his own 5.14b project in Verdon Gorge.

Schubert’s Team Sets Up Livestream

Schubert’s team prepared a livestream for DNA attempts with poor internet and a 25-minute walk to access.

“There was no internet. It was super bad.”

Ascensão Belaying Schubert

Ascensão agreed to belay Schubert during a livestreamed attempt on DNA.

“Jakob asked me, ‘You don’t mind giving me a belay?’ And I said, ‘Man, it’s not a problem.’”

Ascensão’s Initial Reaction

Ascensão joked that Schubert could not fall with him as belayer, but felt the cameras would capture him.

“Puta que pariu!”

Ascensão’s Role During Livestream

Ascensão focused on encouraging Schubert while managing the rope during the livestream.

“I tried to pass some energy to Jakob, tried to cheer him on because I knew this was a historic moment.”

Ascensão’s Shoulder Injury

Ascensão injured his shoulder but returned to help Schubert after a break from belaying.

“Jakob, if you want, man, I cannot climb, but I’m here. At least I can belay you.”

Schubert’s Successful Ascent

Schubert completed DNA, becoming the first climber to repeat another climber’s 9c route.

“DNA was done. Schubert had achieved one of the most significant ascents in sport climbing.”

Ascensão’s Post-Ascent Reaction

Ascensão watched the delayed livestream after washing and cooking dinner.

“I was seeing the video and laughing.”

Schubert Acknowledges Ascensão

Schubert recognized Ascensão as one of the world’s six 9c belayers in the video.

“Schubert thanked him personally, joking that Ascensão was now one of the world’s six 9c belayers.”

Climbers Share the Wall

Ascensão and Schubert coordinated climbing on overlapping routes in Verdon Gorge.

“We need to talk because we cannot be climbing at the same time.”

Ascensão’s Philosophy on Climbing

Ascensão believes climbing should be enjoyable, not an obligation stripped of fun.

“I think people take climbing too seriously. Of course, we take it seriously, but there are professionals and there are not professionals.”

Schubert’s Final Move

Schubert completed DNA with fluid movement, becoming the first to repeat another climber’s 9c.

“He was so fluid. Even belaying him not so many times, because he didn’t need so many tries, I knew from the moves of the route how strong he was.”

Ascensão’s Historic Role

Ascensão became one of the world’s six 9c belayers after Schubert’s DNA ascent.

“Schubert had acknowledged him in the video, joking that Ascensão was now one of the world’s six 9c belayers.”

The 9c Belaying Challenge

Belaying a 9c climber requires more concentration than lower grades due to the physical burden.

“No. I don’t have any pressure. The pressure is on the other end of the rope.”

Ascensão’s Legacy

Ascensão’s role in Schubert’s DNA ascent highlights trust and concentration in climbing.

“Very few people can claim to have held the rope when one of the hardest routes in the world was finally climbed.”