From Gripped Magazine · Brandon Pullan · · 1m 20s
Italian climbers free 17-pitch Dolomites wall
Alessandro Baù and Nicola Tondini complete first free ascent of route they established on Civetta's northwest face.
In brief
Alessandro Baù and Nicola Tondini complete first free ascent of route they established on Civetta's northwest face. Two Italian guides freed their own 17-pitch route on Civetta after establishing it ground-up without bolts, reaching IX+ difficulty. Originally reported by Gripped Magazine.
First free ascent complete
Alessandro Baù and Nicola Tondini freed Pilastro Renato on Civetta's northwest face July 22-23. The 17-pitch route reaches IX+ and was established without bolts.
Route honours fallen hut warden
The route honours Renato De Zordo, longtime warden at Rifugio Coldai. He died in 2025 on the night of the route's first ascent.
Two years in the making
The team started in 2024 but stalled on pitch 12 due to unprotectable rock. They returned in 2025 with Alessandro Beber to complete the first ascent.
The psychological crux pitch
Tondini freed the IX+ pitch on steep yellow rock with long runouts on his first try. Baù followed clean after watching his partner's lead.
“I set off with a light heart and a confident mind, motivated by the perfect friction.”
Breaking holds on pitch 12
The 12th pitch had required aid in 2024. Tondini freed it first, then Baù succeeded after a hold broke on his initial attempt.
Still having fun together
The pair share the same ethics and love for traditional exploration of Dolomite walls. After four more pitches, they reached the summit.
“But above all, we are still capable of having fun.”
At a glance
Two Italian guides freed their own 17-pitch route on Civetta after establishing it ground-up without bolts, reaching IX+ difficulty.
