From Gripped Magazine · Dave Barnes · · 2m
Jerry Moffatt on Climbing's Evolution and Fear
Climbing legend Jerry Moffatt reflects on how modern climbing differs from his era, the risks he took, and why fear remains central to the sport.
In brief
Climbing legend Jerry Moffatt reflects on how modern climbing differs from his era, the risks he took, and why fear remains central to the sport. Jerry Moffatt recalls climbing's transformation from his era to today, emphasizing the risks he took and how fear remains a core part of the sport. Originally reported by…
Jerry Moffatt's climbing legacy
Jerry Moffatt helped shape climbing from its early days through sport competitions and modern training.
Early climbing achievements
He was one of the first climbers to onsight 5.12c, 5.12d, and 5.13a, and climb 5.14+.
First climbing gym
In 1991, he opened The Foundry, Britain’s first climbing gym.
Climbing's early days
When he started, there was no separation between bouldering, routes, or indoor climbing.
Climbing's transformation
The shift from trad climbing to sport routes and clipping bolts was the first major change.
Redpointing era
Redpointing became common after climbers started abseiling down routes to practice moves.
Professional training
Professional training methods, including nutritionists and sports psychologists, improved climbing performance.
Fear and risk
Moffatt experienced life-threatening falls but now avoids high-risk activities due to injuries.
Loss of friends
He lost friends like Neil Molnar and Kurt Albert to accidents during his climbing career.
Modern climbers
Today’s climbers excel in strength, precision, and mental focus compared to his era.
Social media impact
Moffatt prefers the simplicity of his era without mobile phones or social media.
Self-promotion
He supports professional climbers using social media for sponsorships but criticizes self-promotion without experience.
Climbing community
Climbers today are friendly and respectful, with good custodianship of climbing areas.
Climbing's future
Moffatt believes climbing will continue evolving with new techniques and mental approaches.
Climbing's legacy
He reflects on the importance of fear, risk, and the people who shared his climbing journey.
What drives him now
Moffatt stays connected to climbing through watching competitions and training videos.
The big picture
Jerry Moffatt recalls climbing's transformation from his era to today, emphasizing the risks he took and how fear remains a core part of the sport.
