From Gripped Magazine · gripped · · 1m
Jules Marchaland Climbs New 5.15c Route
Jules Marchaland completes King Kang, a 5.15c climb in Norway, with Adam Ondra's help.
In brief
Jules Marchaland completes King Kang, a 5.15c climb in Norway, with Adam Ondra's help. Jules Marchaland first ascended King Kang, a 5.15c route in Norway, after recovering from a toe injury. Originally reported by Gripped Magazine.
First Ascent of King Kang
Jules Marchaland made the first ascent of King Kang at Flatanger, Norway, grading it 5.15c.
“I only got two days on it last year while being sick, came back hungry for it this year.”
Adam Ondra's Role
Adam Ondra introduced Marchaland to the route, helping him overcome a toe injury to complete the climb.
“Thanks Adam for telling me about this project and giving me the opportunity to climb it.”
The Dyno Challenge
King Kang features a powerful dyno that Marchaland described as 'wild,' making it feel like a one-move route.
“Really stoked I got it done before getting stuck falling on the same move over and over.”
Grade Confirmation
Marchaland initially hesitated on the grade but confirmed 5.15c after discussing with Adam Ondra.
“As for the grade, I didn't feel super legit calling it 9b plus, but after talking it through with Adam, it feels right.”
2025 Progress
In 2025, Marchaland climbed multiple 5.14d and 5.15a routes, including two of Ondra's established routes.
V15 Flash
Marchaland flashed Power of Now Direct V15 in August 2025, becoming the second climber to flash this grade.
The main idea
Jules Marchaland first ascended King Kang, a 5.15c route in Norway, after recovering from a toe injury.
