From Gripped Magazine · gripped · · 1m 20s
Loic Zehani's 20+ 5.15 first ascents
The French climber just added another 5.15a to his impressive list of new routes.
In brief
The French climber just added another 5.15a to his impressive list of new routes. Loic Zehani has established over 20 first ascents in the 5.15 grade range, making him one of the most prolific route developers at the highest difficulty levels. Originally reported by Gripped Magazine.
A prolific first ascent record
Loic Zehani has climbed over 50 first ascents from 5.14d to 5.15b. Twenty of those routes are in the elite 5.15 range.
New route in Orgon
His latest is Le blues d'une enfance prolongée, a 5.15a that combines three existing routes. It features a bouldery start and a long, resistant middle section.
An emotional return
Zehani first linked part of the route when he was 13. Climbing it again more than 10 years later was very emotional for him.
“it was very emotional to climb it again more than 10 years later.”
Seven 5.15b first ascents
His hardest new routes include Harder Better Faster Stronger, Quartiers nord, Mossoul, Brooklyn, Harlem, Chikane, and Obsession.
Artaburu controversy
Zehani claimed the second ascent of Artaburu in 2023, but climbers accused his belayer of snugging slack too much. He deleted the video and said he was still projecting it.
Community backlash
First ascensionist Iker Pou shared his thoughts on the repeat. Some climbers felt the community was too harsh in how they criticized Zehani.
In short
Loic Zehani has established over 20 first ascents in the 5.15 grade range, making him one of the most prolific route developers at the highest difficulty levels.
