From Gripped Magazine · Brandon Pullan · · 1m
New Alpine Route on Chacraraju
Three climbers open steep route on Peruvian Andes peak once deemed impossible to climb
In brief
Three climbers open steep route on Peruvian Andes peak once deemed impossible to climb Shumaq Warmi route established on Chacraraju West summit after decades of unclimbed status Originally reported by Gripped Magazine.
First ascent of Chacraraju West
Three climbers opened a new route on Chacraraju West summit in the Peruvian Andes on Sept 11
“The twin summits of Huascaran have been ascended only from the west. Most of this group of mountains have been climbed once or twice with the exception of the South Pk. of Huandoy and the incredible Chacraraju which will apparently require siege or suicide”
Chacraraju's dangerous reputation
Chacraraju West summit was considered impossible to climb in the 1950s due to its fluted faces and cornices
1956 first ascent
French-Swiss team reached Chacraraju West summit on July 31 1956 after overcoming 800 vertical meters
New route established
Eckland Zerain and Sanchez spent six days creating Shumaq Warmi route through heavy snow and ice
Summit challenge
Climbers faced 70-meter WI4+ crux and 13 rappels during summit push on Chacraraju West
Summit success
Team reached Chacraraju West summit at 10:15 a.m. after six days of challenging climbs
What it means
Shumaq Warmi route established on Chacraraju West summit after decades of unclimbed status
