New Hard Alpine Climb Took 14 Days

Three climbers took 14 days to climb a new 1,400-metre route on Pakistan’s Koz Sar.

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Oct 4, 2026

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New Hard Alpine Climb Took 14 Days

Three climbers took 14 days to climb a new 1,400-metre route on Pakistan’s Koz Sar.

In brief

Three climbers took 14 days to climb a new 1,400-metre route on Pakistan’s Koz Sar. Takaaki Nagato, Ryo Masumoto and Hiroki Yamamoto completed a 14-day climb of a new 1,400-metre route on Koz Sar in Pakistan’s Batura Muztagh range. Originally reported by Gripped Magazine.

New Route on Koz Sar

Takaaki Nagato, Ryo Masumoto and Hiroki Yamamoto climbed a difficult 1,400-metre route on the south face of Koz Sar in Pakistan’s Batura Muztagh range.

14-Day Expedition

The team reached the summit on August twenty-third after 14 days of climbing in capsule style, establishing six camps on portaledges.

Summit Timeline

They spent two additional days descending, completing the expedition between August sixteenth and thirty-first.

Koz Sar Location

Koz Sar lies in the remote far northwest of the Karakoram, in Gilgit-Baltistan, near the Karambar Valley and close to the Afghan border.

First Ascent History

The first recorded attempt on Koz Sar was in 1993 by an Anglo-Irish expedition, with the first ascent achieved by a Japanese team in 1999.

Yamamoto’s Record

Hiroki Yamamoto added another major achievement to his record after being nominated for a Piolet d’Or last year for climbing Pholesobi Peak in Nepal.

The short version

Takaaki Nagato, Ryo Masumoto and Hiroki Yamamoto completed a 14-day climb of a new 1,400-metre route on Koz Sar in Pakistan’s Batura Muztagh range.

Read the original on Gripped Magazine

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