From Gripped Magazine · gripped · · 1m 10s
New Hard Alpine Climb Took 14 Days
Three climbers took 14 days to climb a new 1,400-metre route on Pakistan’s Koz Sar.
In brief
Three climbers took 14 days to climb a new 1,400-metre route on Pakistan’s Koz Sar. Takaaki Nagato, Ryo Masumoto and Hiroki Yamamoto completed a 14-day climb of a new 1,400-metre route on Koz Sar in Pakistan’s Batura Muztagh range. Originally reported by Gripped Magazine.
New Route on Koz Sar
Takaaki Nagato, Ryo Masumoto and Hiroki Yamamoto climbed a difficult 1,400-metre route on the south face of Koz Sar in Pakistan’s Batura Muztagh range.
14-Day Expedition
The team reached the summit on August twenty-third after 14 days of climbing in capsule style, establishing six camps on portaledges.
Summit Timeline
They spent two additional days descending, completing the expedition between August sixteenth and thirty-first.
Koz Sar Location
Koz Sar lies in the remote far northwest of the Karakoram, in Gilgit-Baltistan, near the Karambar Valley and close to the Afghan border.
First Ascent History
The first recorded attempt on Koz Sar was in 1993 by an Anglo-Irish expedition, with the first ascent achieved by a Japanese team in 1999.
Yamamoto’s Record
Hiroki Yamamoto added another major achievement to his record after being nominated for a Piolet d’Or last year for climbing Pholesobi Peak in Nepal.
The short version
Takaaki Nagato, Ryo Masumoto and Hiroki Yamamoto completed a 14-day climb of a new 1,400-metre route on Koz Sar in Pakistan’s Batura Muztagh range.



