From Gripped Magazine · Dave Barnes · · 3m
Peru's First 9a: Team Climbers Redefine Altitude
German climber Malik Schirawski and two friends establish Peru's first 9a route at 4,500m, sharing first ascents to honor friendship over individual glory.
In brief
German climber Malik Schirawski and two friends establish Peru's first 9a route at 4,500m, sharing first ascents to honor friendship over individual glory. Malik Schirawski and two friends created Peru's first 9a climbing route at 4,500m in the Andes, claiming team first ascents to prioritize shared achievement over…
Malik's Climbing Shift
Twenty one year old German climber Malik Schirawski began thinking about changing his climbing approach at eighteen.
Peru Expedition Begins
Malik and two friends established a 5.14d sport route at approximately 4,500 metres in the Andes during a seven week expedition.
The Idea Started
Malik and his friend Arlo Rogers found a striking arete in Peru on a gallery photo, sparking their trip to climb it.
Team Formation
The team met Josh Ibbetson in Spain, then researched climbing opportunities online with WiFi and a global map.
Funding and Gear
Petzl and Scarpa supported the trip, providing bolts and hardware while the climbers shared sponsorship and photography income.
Local Welcome
Local legend Jorge Sirvas Milla, known as Coco, welcomed them with open arms and shared knowledge of the area.
First Ascent Challenge
The team found a prominent rock shield with an obvious arete that needed immediate climbing action.
Weather and Work
They experienced a snowstorm on their third day, hanging shivering while bolting three lines down a pillar.
Route Creation
Malik bolted the middle line, which became Cancion de la Cuy, while Arlo took Cafe y Coco and Josh worked on the approach pitch.
Altitude Effects
At 4,500 metres, the team found sustained power endurance efforts were particularly punishing due to low oxygen levels.
Team First Ascents
The team agreed to claim team first ascents rather than individual ones to honor shared achievement and friendship.
Climbing at Altitude
Malik completed a technical wall with a double gaston, which took him another session after initial attempts.
Local Impact
Coco emphasized the importance of leaving routes that inspire future climbers in Peru and respecting local customs.
Shared Success
The team created Peru's first 9a route at altitude, sharing the first ascent to prioritize friendship over individual glory.
Climbing Legacy
Coco and Alex Megos praised the team's trip for inspiring future climbers and respecting local climbing culture.
Team's Vision
The team left Peru with new routes and a shared understanding of what they achieved: 9a and altitude climbing.
Here's the gist
Malik Schirawski and two friends created Peru's first 9a climbing route at 4,500m in the Andes, claiming team first ascents to prioritize shared achievement over individual recognition.
