From Gripped Magazine · Brandon Pullan · · 2m
Reinhold Messner Climbs Lhotse 40 Years Ago
Reinhold Messner reached Lhotse summit with Hans Kammerlander in 1986, becoming first to climb all 14 8000m peaks without oxygen.
In brief
Reinhold Messner reached Lhotse summit with Hans Kammerlander in 1986, becoming first to climb all 14 8000m peaks without oxygen. Reinhold Messner and Hans Kammerlander became the first mountaineers to summit all 14 8000m peaks without supplemental oxygen in 1986. Originally reported by Gripped Magazine.
Messner and Kammerlander Summit Lhotse
Forty years ago today, on Oct. 16, 1986, Reinhold Messner reached the summit of Lhotse, Nepal, alongside Hans Kammerlander.
First to Climb All 14 8000m Peaks
Messner became the first mountaineer to climb all 14 of the world’s 8,000-metre peaks without supplementary oxygen.
16-Year Pursuit of 14 Peaks
The achievement capped a sixteen-year pursuit that redefined high-altitude mountaineering.
Earlier Everest Summits
Messner had already made history in 1978, summiting Everest with Peter Habeler without bottled oxygen, and again in 1980, climbing Everest solo under the same conditions.
Philosophy of Risk and Autonomy
His approach emphasized lightweight expeditions, minimal equipment and individual autonomy over the heavily supported ascents common at the time.
Personal Tragedy and Motivation
Shaped by both extraordinary achievement and personal tragedy, including the death of his brother Günther on Nanga Parbat in 1970, Messner developed a philosophy grounded in the acceptance of risk rather than the illusion of…
Historic Benchmark for Climbers
His completion of the 14 peaks in 1986 established a historic benchmark in mountaineering.
Messner's 2026 Memoir
An excerpt from his 2026 memoir, Against the Wind, reflects on his life and climbing philosophy.
Lebensfreude and Sustainability
Messner describes Lebensfreude as the desire to live life to the fullest, emphasizing sustainability through reusing materials and harmonizing with nature.
Criticism and Public Engagement
Messner faced criticism from various groups but maintains respect for Sherpas and their role in Himalayan mountaineering.
Legacy and Future Plans
Messner plans to continue contributing to public discussions while reflecting on his life and achievements.
The big picture
Reinhold Messner and Hans Kammerlander became the first mountaineers to summit all 14 8000m peaks without supplemental oxygen in 1986.
