From Gripped Magazine · Brandon Pullan · · 1m 20s
The bold free solo climber you've never heard of
In 1961, Belgian climber Claude Barbier soloed five legendary Dolomite north faces in a single day.
In brief
In 1961, Belgian climber Claude Barbier soloed five legendary Dolomite north faces in a single day. Claude Barbier's 1961 solo of five Tre Cime north faces in 13 hours remains one of climbing's most audacious achievements. Originally reported by Gripped Magazine.
An audacious plan
On August 24, 1961, 23-year-old Belgian climber Claude Barbier set out to solo all five north faces of the Tre Cime di Lavaredo in one day.
The first two climbs
Barbier started the Cassin route on Cima Ovest at 5:20 a.m., summiting at 8:18. He then climbed the Comici route on Cima Grande, reaching the top three hours later.
Three more to go
At 2:45 p.m., he climbed the Preuss route on Cima Piccolissima, then the Dülfer route on Punta di Frida. His final route was the Innerkofler on Cima Piccola, finishing at 6:25.
A stunning achievement
Barbier completed all five climbs in 13 hours and 5 minutes total, with 8 hours 38 minutes of climbing and roughly 3,500 meters of vertical gain.
“Refuge warden Bepi Reider had watched him earlier that morning through binoculars as he soloed the Cassin route, assuming Barbier would soon return for breakfast.”
Still unmatched today
In September 2026, veteran alpinists Marian Aßmair and Michael Stadler attempted the same routes as fast as possible. It took them 14 hours and 15 minutes.
A legacy cut short
Barbier became an influential figure in Belgian climbing. He died in a climbing accident in Yvoir, Belgium, in 1977, aged 35.
The essence
Claude Barbier's 1961 solo of five Tre Cime north faces in 13 hours remains one of climbing's most audacious achievements.
