The chef who never stops

David Schwartz runs Sunnys Chinese, Mimi Chinese and Linny's in Toronto. On his time off, he sharpens his knife and cooks for friends and family anyway.

“As a restauranteur in Toronto, David Schwartz's work is never done.”

A loft built for hosting

He lives in a converted Kensington Market loft with his wife Lee-Tal Hatuka and their one-year-old son, Sid. Her abstract paintings anchor a palette of wood, cream and small bursts of colour.

Summer means charcoal

The couple loves having people over, and summer is the season for it. That's when the charcoal barbecue comes out and the menu gets built around the grill.

Vegetables come first

He cooks at home the way he cooks at work, minus the theme. The ingredient leads, and in summer that means whatever produce is best that week.

“I start with ingredients and then work my way from there.”

The table is set like Linny's

His summer menu nods to Linny's, the deli steakhouse named for his late mother. Shined silver, linen napkins, candlesticks and plain white plates, at home too.

Beans, then cabbage

Runner beans finish on the grill with a brown butter vinaigrette and shaved Comté. A cabbage salad with radicchio, sunflower vinaigrette and nigella seeds cuts the richness.

Oven first, fire second

The lamb shoulder roasts low and slow until it collapses, then hits the charcoal with peppers and onions. Potatoes with yogurt and berbere spice round it out.

“A slow cook in the oven breaks down the lamb and results in a super-comforting texture.”

Down the Chinese food rabbit hole

Sunnys is playful and loud, Mimi is the polished version. He calls Chinese cooking the deepest, most varied food culture there is, and fell for it completely.

“It's a tale as old as time: chefs turn away from their own food culture and dive into another one.”

Egg rolls with his mother

Linda Pach died of cancer in 2003, when David was 10. His earliest food memories are Chinese restaurant meals with her, which is why the cuisine still reads as comfort.

The perfect grilled bite

Tear fluffy bakery flatbread, load it with lamb, then drizzle green herb sauce and fermented hot pepper sauce. Savoury, tangy and fresh, all in one hand.