From Vanity Fair · José Criales-Unzueta · · 2m
Fashion's Legacy Debate at Paris Fashion Week
Saint Laurent's Anthony Vaccarello steps down after 10 years as creative director amid fashion industry shifts.
In brief
Saint Laurent's Anthony Vaccarello steps down after 10 years as creative director amid fashion industry shifts. Anthony Vaccarello leaves Saint Laurent after 10 years to focus on his next creative challenge. Originally reported by Vanity Fair.
Anthony Vaccarello leaves Saint Laurent
Anthony Vaccarello said he would be leaving Saint Laurent after 10 years as creative director following a blockbuster Paris Fashion Week show.
Vaccarello's gilded collection finale
Vaccarello showed a collection of gilded ready-to-wear that concluded with a procession of blacked out evening wear.
Industry upheaval in fashion
Last year saw a reset across over a dozen luxury brands including Dior, Chanel, Gucci, and Balenciaga with new creative directors.
Vaccarello's decade-long rise
Vaccarello grew from underdog to alpha designer at Saint Laurent over 10 years, known for his razor-sharp cutting and sensual output.
Vaccarello's legacy focus
Vaccarello's collections referenced Saint Laurent's greatest hits, lesser celebrated eras, and personal uniform to celebrate the house's legacy.
Mugler's new designer challenges
Miguel Castro Freitas showed Mugler's first collection a year ago, re-aligning with Manfred Thierry Mugler's point of view on tailoring.
Alexis Stone's Mugler stunt
Alexis Stone dressed as Manfred Thierry Mugler at the Mugler show wearing a look from his personal wardrobe.
Mugler's legacy dilemma
Stone's appearance was seen as misguided as Mugler died only a few years ago, and the stunt felt like an attempt to hold on to the legacy.
Dior's Jonathan Anderson
Jonathan Anderson's Dior collection was light and flouncy but retained Dior's excesses like layers and jewelry.
Balmain and Courrèges challenges
Antonin Tron and Drew Henry face reinvigorating Balmain and Courrèges, whose founders are less widely understood today.
Chanel's Matthieu Blazy
Matthieu Blazy designed a Chanel collection drawing from Gabrielle 'Coco' Chanel's life to challenge the brand's collective conception.
Vaccarello's perspective
Vaccarello said it's hard to do a good job several times, mentioning only Blazy as getting it right the second time around.
Fashion legacy debate
The fashion industry faces a contentious relationship with legacy as designers navigate celebrating versus rejecting historical fashion.
The one thing
Anthony Vaccarello leaves Saint Laurent after 10 years to focus on his next creative challenge.
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