# Alex Megos Climbs Australia's Hardest Route

> Alex Megos completes Australia's hardest sport climb after weather gamble.
- Title: Alex Megos Climbs Australia's Hardest Route · Gripped Magazine
- Summary: Alex Megos completes Australia's hardest sport climb after weather gamble. Alex Megos made Australia's first 9b climb at Cheesedale, Nowra, after two…
- Keywords: alex megos, slice of heaven, cheesedale, nowra, australia, sport climbing, grade 37, sandstone, el niño, september, weather gamble, Alex
- Source: Gripped Magazine — https://gripped.com/news/slice-of-heaven-alex-megos-talks-about-his-new-5-15b
- Author: Dave Barnes
- Published: 2026-09-30T11:35:04+00:00
- Read time: 2 min
- Topics: alex megos, slice of heaven, cheesedale, nowra, australia, sport climbing, 9b, grade 37, sandstone, el niño, september, weather gamble
## Alex Megos returns to Australia
Alex Megos returned to Australia with unfinished business to climb Slice of Heaven, a grade 37 (9b/5.15b) at Cheesedale near Nowra, south of Sydney.
## First attempt falls short
After falling just short on his first visit, Megos returned to Cheesedale in September 2026 to make the first ascent of Australia's hardest established sport climb.
## Weather gamble
Megos needed one day with 15 degrees and a strong southerly wind to climb Slice of Heaven after El Niño pushed temperatures higher than normal.
## The climb
Slice of Heaven is a 15-meter sandstone route with 20 high intensity moves, starting with a 7c+ boulder problem and featuring a three finger intermediate crux.
## Crux move
The crux involves a big left hand stab into a shallow three finger dish, followed by a sketchy toe hook and heel hook to reach the anchor.
## Megos' perspective
Megos describes Slice of Heaven as an anti style climb for small and tall climbers due to mandatory reaches and boxy movement.
## Bolted by Ryan Sklenica
Ryan Sklenica bolted Slice of Heaven in early 2026, reinforcing only one hold on natural sandstone.
## Megos' first visit
Megos first visited Australia in 2013, establishing Retired Extremely Dangerous in the Blue Mountains, then considered a 9a.
## Changing scene
Megos noted Australia's climbing scene changed significantly in the last thirteen years, with less potential and hostility to foreigners.
## Local support
Ryan Sklenica invited Megos to Nowra, where local climbers opened projects to him and shared their climbing.
## Second attempt
Megos returned to Cheesedale in September 2026, falling on the last hard move but returning to try again after a weather gamble.
## The climb succeeds
On September 17, 2026, Megos completed Slice of Heaven after a 15-degree day with strong southerly winds.
## Why it matters
Slice of Heaven is Australia's first 9b climb and hardest established sport climb, marking a new international conversation for Nowra and Australian climbing.
## Local perspective
Local climbers in Nowra believe the area is experiencing a second golden age of climbing after years of stagnation.
## What's next
Megos plans to return to Australia, believing in Australian climbing and that Slice of Heaven could change the trajectory of hard climbing in Australia.
## Key takeaway

Alex Megos made Australia's first 9b climb at Cheesedale, Nowra, after two attempts and a weather gamble.