# Alpinists Climb New 1,800-metre M7 WI5 in Karakoram

> Canadian climbers summit Sosbun Brakk, a 6,413-metre peak in Pakistan’s Karakoram, after a technical ascent on its north face.
- Title: Alpinists Climb New 1,800-metre M7 WI5 in Karakoram | Shortify
- Summary: Canadian climbers summit Sosbun Brakk, a 6,413-metre peak in Pakistan’s Karakoram, after a technical ascent on its north face. Canadian climbers Grant…
- Keywords: sosbun brakk, grant stewart, dane steadman, cody winckler, karakoram, pakistan, alpine climbing, north face, summit, Gripped Magazine
- Source: Gripped Magazine — https://gripped.com/news/alpinists-climb-new-1800-metre-m7-wi5-in-karakoram
- Author: Dave Barnes
- Published: 2026-11-04T19:08:29+00:00
- Read time: 2 min
- Topics: sosbun brakk, grant stewart, dane steadman, cody winckler, karakoram, pakistan, alpine climbing, north face, summit
## Canadian climbers prepare for Sosbun Brakk
Grant Stewart, Dane Steadman, and Cody Winckler planned a climb on Sosbun Brakk, a 6,413-metre peak in Pakistan’s Karakoram.

> I think I’d seen a picture of the top of the face from trekkers on the Biafo Glacier.
## Sosbun Brakk: Hidden north face
Sosbun Brakk’s north face, up the Sokha Glacier, remains mostly hidden despite being visible from Snow Lake.

> It is funny because you can see it from Snow Lake, but the big face on it, the north face, is mostly hidden. You can’t really see the full thing.
## Military clearance setback
The team lost Pakistani military clearance for their planned route near the Line of Control with India.

> After the team finally obtained permission, the Pakistani military withdrew that clearance at the last minute, forcing them to reconsider their plans.
## Expedition organizer Ali Saltoro
Ali Saltoro, an expedition organizer with experience in the region, helped the team navigate logistics and local knowledge.

> Stewart describes Saltoro as a great person and exceptionally organised.
## Luggage loss and altitude sickness
Winckler’s luggage disappeared during flight to Pakistan, and both climbers suffered from altitude sickness.

> Winckler’s luggage had disappeared during the flight into Pakistan, taking specialised equipment with it, including modified stoves and Ice hammocks designed to as support a tent on tiny ledges.
## First attempt on north face
The team climbed approximately 300 metres of the 1,800-metre north face before descending due to approaching storm.

> After many hours of postholing across deep glacier snow, they reached the route and climbed approximately 300 metres of the 1,800-metre face.
## Challenging route selection
The climbers sought a balance between difficulty and hazard to find a safe route on Sosbun Brakk’s north face.

> We’re trying to find things that are difficult but not overly objectively hazardous. That’s the hard part.
## Snow mushrooms and danger
The team faced falling snow mushrooms that knocked Stewart to the ground and damaged their tent.

> Mushrooms are big, Dr. Seuss kind of features that usually form on steep terrain in places like the Karakoram.
## Summit push and weather challenges
The team reached the summit at 4 p.m., two hours later than planned, after a technical ascent on Sosbun Brakk’s north face.

> They reached the summit at approximately 4 p.m., two hours later than their initial planned turnaround time.
## Descent through storm
The team descended the northwest ridge through a storm, avoiding seracs and avalanches.

> It was completely nuts.
## Glacier crossing and crevasse
Stewart avoided a crevasse by jumping forward after feeling the ground shake.

> I just jumped in time, and it kind of opened up behind my feet like in a film.
## Return to Base Camp
The team returned to Base Camp after a stormy descent, where they were greeted by cooks and celebration.

> They were very excited, dancing, and even baked us a cake.
## Balti porters and local knowledge
Balti porters provided critical support for the expedition, including carrying equipment and food.

> They did an amazing job. I actually can’t believe they can get yaks that far into the mountains.
## Slow and heavy approach
The climbers used a slow and heavy approach to manage risks and recover from weather challenges.

> It’s just taking a bit of extra food/gas and having the capacity to spend time on a mountain and experience it.
## Future exploration in Pakistan
Stewart plans to explore more technical alpine routes in Pakistan’s less-travelled peaks.

> From Sosbun Brakk’s summit, the team could look towards the Ogre, Latoks and Masherbrum.
## Canadian climbing community
Stewart believes Canadian climbers have the skills to pursue ambitious objectives abroad.

> Canada punches above its weight, for sure. There’s a crew of really talented and motivated people here that are out climbing things every year, both at home, but also in the greater ranges.
## Key takeaway

Canadian climbers Grant Stewart, Dane Steadman, and Cody Winckler reached the summit of Sosbun Brakk, a 6,413-metre peak in Pakistan’s Karakoram, after a challenging ascent on its north face.