# Jerry Moffatt on Climbing's Evolution and Fear

> Climbing legend Jerry Moffatt reflects on how modern climbing differs from his era, the risks he took, and why fear remains central to the sport.
- Title: Jerry Moffatt on Climbing's Evolution and Fear | Shortify
- Summary: Climbing legend Jerry Moffatt reflects on how modern climbing differs from his era, the risks he took, and why fear remains central to the sport. Jerry…
- Keywords: jerry moffatt, climbing, sport climbing, trad climbing, sport routes, climbing competitions, indoor climbing, fear in climbing, climbing history, climbing community, Jerry, Moffatt
- Source: Gripped Magazine — https://gripped.com/profiles/interview-with-climbing-legend-jerry-moffatt-what-the-hell-was-i-doing
- Author: Dave Barnes
- Published: 2026-10-15T17:46:15+00:00
- Read time: 1 min
- Topics: jerry moffatt, climbing, sport climbing, trad climbing, sport routes, climbing competitions, indoor climbing, fear in climbing, climbing history, climbing community
## Jerry Moffatt's climbing legacy
Jerry Moffatt helped shape climbing from its early days through sport competitions and modern training.
## Early climbing achievements
He was one of the first climbers to onsight 5.12c, 5.12d, and 5.13a, and climb 5.14+.
## First climbing gym
In 1991, he opened The Foundry, Britain’s first climbing gym.
## Climbing's early days
When he started, there was no separation between bouldering, routes, or indoor climbing.
## Climbing's transformation
The shift from trad climbing to sport routes and clipping bolts was the first major change.
## Redpointing era
Redpointing became common after climbers started abseiling down routes to practice moves.
## Professional training
Professional training methods, including nutritionists and sports psychologists, improved climbing performance.
## Fear and risk
Moffatt experienced life-threatening falls but now avoids high-risk activities due to injuries.
## Loss of friends
He lost friends like Neil Molnar and Kurt Albert to accidents during his climbing career.
## Modern climbers
Today’s climbers excel in strength, precision, and mental focus compared to his era.
## Social media impact
Moffatt prefers the simplicity of his era without mobile phones or social media.
## Self-promotion
He supports professional climbers using social media for sponsorships but criticizes self-promotion without experience.
## Climbing community
Climbers today are friendly and respectful, with good custodianship of climbing areas.
## Climbing's future
Moffatt believes climbing will continue evolving with new techniques and mental approaches.
## Climbing's legacy
He reflects on the importance of fear, risk, and the people who shared his climbing journey.
## What drives him now
Moffatt stays connected to climbing through watching competitions and training videos.
## Key takeaway

Jerry Moffatt recalls climbing's transformation from his era to today, emphasizing the risks he took and how fear remains a core part of the sport.