# Reinhold Messner Climbs Lhotse 40 Years Ago

> Reinhold Messner reached Lhotse summit with Hans Kammerlander in 1986, becoming first to climb all 14 8000m peaks without oxygen.
- Title: Reinhold Messner Climbs Lhotse 40 Years Ago · Gripped Magazine
- Summary: Reinhold Messner reached Lhotse summit with Hans Kammerlander in 1986, becoming first to climb all 14 8000m peaks without oxygen. Reinhold Messner and Hans…
- Keywords: reinhold messner, lhotse, hans kammerlander, mountaineering, 8000m peaks, supplemental oxygen, nepal, 1986, alpinism, Reinhold, Messner, Climbs
- Source: Gripped Magazine — https://gripped.com/news/how-reinhold-messner-made-mountaineering-history-40-years-ago-today
- Author: Brandon Pullan
- Published: 2026-10-16T11:59:14+00:00
- Read time: 1 min
- Topics: reinhold messner, lhotse, hans kammerlander, mountaineering, 8000m peaks, supplemental oxygen, nepal, 1986, alpinism
## Messner and Kammerlander Summit Lhotse
Forty years ago today, on Oct. 16, 1986, Reinhold Messner reached the summit of Lhotse, Nepal, alongside Hans Kammerlander.
## First to Climb All 14 8000m Peaks
Messner became the first mountaineer to climb all 14 of the world’s 8,000-metre peaks without supplementary oxygen.
## 16-Year Pursuit of 14 Peaks
The achievement capped a sixteen-year pursuit that redefined high-altitude mountaineering.
## Earlier Everest Summits
Messner had already made history in 1978, summiting Everest with Peter Habeler without bottled oxygen, and again in 1980, climbing Everest solo under the same conditions.
## Philosophy of Risk and Autonomy
His approach emphasized lightweight expeditions, minimal equipment and individual autonomy over the heavily supported ascents common at the time.
## Personal Tragedy and Motivation
Shaped by both extraordinary achievement and personal tragedy, including the death of his brother Günther on Nanga Parbat in 1970, Messner developed a philosophy grounded in the acceptance of risk rather than the illusion of…
## Historic Benchmark for Climbers
His completion of the 14 peaks in 1986 established a historic benchmark in mountaineering.
## Messner's 2026 Memoir
An excerpt from his 2026 memoir, Against the Wind, reflects on his life and climbing philosophy.
## Lebensfreude and Sustainability
Messner describes Lebensfreude as the desire to live life to the fullest, emphasizing sustainability through reusing materials and harmonizing with nature.
## Criticism and Public Engagement
Messner faced criticism from various groups but maintains respect for Sherpas and their role in Himalayan mountaineering.
## Legacy and Future Plans
Messner plans to continue contributing to public discussions while reflecting on his life and achievements.
## Key takeaway

Reinhold Messner and Hans Kammerlander became the first mountaineers to summit all 14 8000m peaks without supplemental oxygen in 1986.