# Yosemite's Most Miserable Shiver Bivy

> Three climbers trapped in a blizzard on Half Dome's South Face face freezing death before helicopter rescue.
- Title: Yosemite's Most Miserable Shiver Bivy · Climbing | Shortify
- Summary: Three climbers trapped in a blizzard on Half Dome's South Face face freezing death before helicopter rescue. Three climbers survived a deadly blizzard on…
- Keywords: yosemite, half dome, shiver bivy, yosemite search and rescue, climbing, helicopter rescue, portaledge, winds, cold weather, yosemite valley, sports, travel
- Source: Climbing — https://climbing.com/culture-climbing/was-this-yosemites-most-miserable-shiver-bivy-2
- Author: John Middendorf
- Published: 2026-09-27T09:00:14+00:00
- Read time: 2 min
- Topics: yosemite, half dome, shiver bivy, yosemite search and rescue, climbing, helicopter rescue, portaledge, winds, cold weather, yosemite valley, sports, travel
## Winter 1986 Half Dome Attempt
In early 1986, three experienced climbers planned a winter solo attempt on Half Dome's South Face, a 2,000-foot wall known for failures.
## The Prow Solo Challenge
Bob wanted to solo The Prow, a classic aid line on Washington Column, but the climber warned him not to get rescued.
## South Face Winter Risks
The South Face had a history of failures, including a 1968 storm that trapped Warren Harding and Galen Rowell for days.
## Team Formation
Mike Corbett and Steve Bosque, two Yosemite regulars, asked the author to join their winter attempt for his 40th big wall climb.
## The Long Approach
The author carried 100-plus pounds of gear for the eight-mile climb, staggering after 31,000 staggers.
## The Great Escape Hatch
The eighth pitch, called 'The Great Escape Hatch,' was a contortionist's dream with a gaping Bombay chimney.
## The Tri-Clops Descent
The day's fourth pitch led to The Tri-Clops, three large rock indentations where Mike and the author set up a bivy at The Ledge.
## Mike's Fall
Mike popped a bat-hook and took a 20- or 30-foot fall, fracturing his finger while trying to grab the previous bat-hook.
## The Storm Begins
On Friday evening, the storm intensified with heavy rain, high winds, and Steve's ledge collapsing.
## The Ledge Crisis
The author's ledge began to slip due to icy conditions, threatening to dump him into the void.
## Frozen Survival
By Saturday morning, temperatures dropped, rain turned to icy BBs, and gear began to freeze solid.
## The Frozen Wall
The ice-covered wall made ropes frozen to the wall, preventing any rescue or movement.
## Waiting for Help
The climbers waited in their ledges as the storm raged, counting to 22,000 in sets of 100 to stay warm.
## The Avalanche
As the sun warmed the ice, avalanches of soft chunks crashed down on the climbers.
## Helicopter Rescue
A helicopter from LeMoore Naval Air Station rescued the climbers after a tense 100-foot hover.
## Aftermath
The climbers were saved by a coordinated rescue effort involving over 30 people, including medics and helicopter crews.
## Key takeaway

Three climbers survived a deadly blizzard on Yosemite's Half Dome South Face after a helicopter rescue.