Celia Birtwell brings humanity to Burberry's checks

The textile designer's florals and doodles soften the luxury brand's graphic identity in a one-off London fashion week collection.

Sep 21, 2026

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Celia Birtwell brings humanity to Burberry's checks

The textile designer's florals and doodles soften the luxury brand's graphic identity in a one-off London fashion week collection.

In brief

The textile designer's florals and doodles soften the luxury brand's graphic identity in a one-off London fashion week collection. Designer Celia Birtwell collaborated with Burberry on a spring-summer twenty twenty-seven collection that softened the brand's signature check with hand-painted florals and archived…

Two British treasures meet

Burberry designer Daniel Lee met textile designer Celia Birtwell this spring and fell for her energy and zest for life. Their one-off collaboration closed London fashion week.

“her energy, and her zest for life”

Softening the signature check

Softening the signature check

Birtwell hand-painted a less regimented version of Burberry's graphic check. Lee said she made it more human, which matters for luxury purchases that are emotional, not necessary.

“She made the check more human.”

Archived doodles become prints

Archived doodles become prints

A doodle of round, Smartie-bright smiley faces from Birtwell's archive, drawn twenty years ago but never produced, became a print for the spring-summer twenty twenty-seven collection.

Burberry's turnaround gains pace

Burberry reported its first revenue growth in three years this summer, with retail sales rising five percent year-on-year in the second quarter. Chief executive Joshua Schulman steered the brand through crisis years.

Outerwear becomes the focus

Outerwear becomes the focus

Burberry is zeroing in on the outerwear market, where British heritage is a trump card. For this collection, trenches came in slinky silk taffeta with puffball hems and ruched collars.

V and A displays Burberry's trench legacy

Burberry is staging a display at the V and A museum in South Kensington until January third. The Burberry Trench: Crafting an Icon includes a nineteen thirty-nine military overcoat and designer Hardy Amies' own trench.

The bottom line

Designer Celia Birtwell collaborated with Burberry on a spring-summer twenty twenty-seven collection that softened the brand's signature check with hand-painted florals and archived smiley-face prints.

Read the original on the Guardian

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