From Climbing · Maya Silver · · 2m
Alex Honnold and Jim Morrison Compare Notes: Free Soloing El Cap vs. Skiing Everest’s North Face
Alex Honnold and Jim Morrison discuss historic risks: free soloing El Capitan and skiing Everest’s north face.
In brief
Alex Honnold and Jim Morrison discuss historic risks: free soloing El Capitan and skiing Everest’s north face. Alex Honnold and Jim Morrison compared the risks of free soloing El Capitan and skiing Everest’s north face, both achieving historic feats after years of preparation. Originally reported by Climbing.
Historic Feats Comparison
Alex Honnold’s free solo of El Capitan and Jim Morrison’s ski descent of Everest’s north face share parallels despite different risks.
“Both feats entailed years of dreaming and preparation, though took only about four hours to pull off.”
Time and Preparation
Honnold completed El Cap in three hours, 56 minutes in 2017; Morrison’s ski descent took four hours, five minutes after a partial knee replacement.
“In 2017, Honnold reached the top of El Cap in three hours, 56 minutes.”
Shared Risk Tolerance
Both men consider each other 'crazy' and believe they took measured risks despite the potential for fatal falls.
“Morrison called Honnold’s ropeless ascent of El Cap 'totally insane.'”
Film Documentation
Jimmy Chin documented both achievements with films Free Solo (2018) and Everest North (release date TBD).
“Jimmy Chin is the filmmaker who documented both achievements, with Free Solo (2018) and Everest North (working title; release date TBD).”
Hilarie Nelson’s Legacy
Morrison lost his partner Hilaree Nelson on Manaslu in 2022 after she triggered a small avalanche.
“She had set off a small avalanche.”
Grief and Coping
Morrison uses a metaphor of drying a wet blanket to describe grief, which he carries with him.
“I’ve described grief as a big heavy wet blanket that gets put on you.”
Life After Achievements
Honnold’s free solo led to a Hollywood deployment for film screenings and award ceremonies.
“After free soloing El Cap, Honnold said his life became 'a crazy whirlwind.'”
Morrison’s Everest Ascent
Morrison skied down Everest’s north face on October 15, 2026, four months after a partial knee replacement.
“At the age of 50, after two failed attempts and the staggering loss of Hilaree Nelson, his partner in life and mountains, on Manaslu, Morrison skied down Hornbein’s Couloir on October 15.”
The Hornbein Couloir
The Hornbein Couloir on Everest’s north side has killed several climbers, including Marco Siffredi in 2002.
“The Hornbein Couloir on the northern Tibet side of Everest has taken the lives of several climbers, including the snowboarder Marco Siffredi who attempted to make the first descent of the couloir in 2002.”
Historic Context
The north side of Everest was first ascended in 1963 by Thomas Hornbein and Willi Unsoeld, 22 days after Jim Whittaker’s first American Everest climb.
“Two Americans, Thomas Hornbein and Willi Unsoeld, made the first ascent of Everest’s north side in 1963.”
Risk and Preparation
Morrison emphasized that his ski descent was the result of extensive planning, not complacency.
“This is what I’m drawn to and this is what my life’s goals have been centered around.”
The 'Enough' Question
Morrison answered the 'what’s next' question with 'isn’t this enough?' after achieving his Everest ski descent.
“I just achieved this 10-year life dream.”
Consequence of Risk
Both men face distorted memories and public scrutiny after achieving historic feats.
“Without taking some amount of personal risk, you just can’t lead a rich and fulfilled life.”
In short
Alex Honnold and Jim Morrison compared the risks of free soloing El Capitan and skiing Everest’s north face, both achieving historic feats after years of preparation.
