From Climbing · Maya Silver · · 2m
Benighted in Yosemite's Lost Arrow Chimney
A climber shares her night stranded in a Yosemite chimney after failing to complete a 10-pitch climb.
In brief
A climber shares her night stranded in a Yosemite chimney after failing to complete a 10-pitch climb. Shino Jomoto spent a night in Yosemite's Lost Arrow Chimney after getting stuck on a 10-pitch climb, highlighting the risks of old-school chimney routes. Originally reported by Climbing.
The Lost Arrow Chimney
Shino Jomoto describes getting stuck in a 10-pitch climb on Yosemite's Lost Arrow Spire.
History of the Chimney
John Salathé first ascended the chimney in 1946 and spent four bivouacs in 1947.
The Skeleton
A human skeleton remains in the chimney after Irving Smith died in 1961.
The Grade Misconception
The chimney is rated 5.10a but requires 10 pitches of old-school climbing.
The First Night
Jomoto and her partner slept in the chimney after failing to complete the climb.
The Salad Problem
They ate a salad without water, making it difficult to consume.
The Water Shortage
They had no water after sleeping in the chimney for six hours.
The Yosemite Falls Attempt
They tried to hike to Yosemite Falls but couldn't due to lack of water.
The Redemption
They completed the climb on June 2, 2024, after a day and a half.
The Epics
Jomoto rates epics on a scale from 1.0 to 5.0, with the Lost Arrow Chimney at 5.0.
The Benighted Experience
Benighted means getting stuck in the dark with no headlamps after a climb.
The Lost Arrow Chimney Support Group
Jomoto suggests a club for climbers who summit the Lost Arrow Chimney.
The Delusion
Jomoto says you need delusional optimism to get off the ground on a climb.
The Epics Scale
Jomoto's epic scale: 1.0 = no headlamps, 5.0 = needs headlamps to complete.
The Chimney's Legacy
The Lost Arrow Chimney has a history of climbers who bailed after failing.
The Final Lesson
Jomoto says surviving a benighted experience bonds climbers for life.
The key point
Shino Jomoto spent a night in Yosemite's Lost Arrow Chimney after getting stuck on a 10-pitch climb, highlighting the risks of old-school chimney routes.
