From Eater · Liz Provencher · · 3m
The pop-up that took 10 years to find a door
Alex McCoy on turning a six-month D.C. cult hit into a 25-seat Georgetown room, and why small is the plan.
In brief
Alex McCoy on turning a six-month D.C. cult hit into a 25-seat Georgetown room, and why small is the plan. A tiny room with the owners cooking in it is not a compromise, it is the business model that still works. Originally reported by Eater.
A decade to a front door

Justin Ahn and Alex McCoy opened Alfie's as a D.C. pop-up in 2016. It ran a few months, then went roving for years. The permanent Georgetown room only arrived in 2026.
It began as a rehearsal
A doomed restaurant space down the street from their Petworth build-out was offered to them until demolition. They took it to train staff and test menus during construction.
“It's yours until your space is ready or our project starts.”
The rehearsal outran the show
The quiet-neighborhood side project became a cult sensation, booked months out. Vogue wrote about it. Bon Appetit called it one of the best new restaurants in America.
Then the real space fell through
They closed the pop-up in 2017 and the Petworth lease never worked out. The concept they had proved had nowhere to live.
Years on the road
Alfie's became a traveling act: New York, D.C., London, with the biggest runs alongside their friends at Carousel. Hunting for a venue the whole time.
Europe rewrote the brand
McCoy credits the overseas stretch with turning a scrappy pop-up into a defined concept. The road was not a delay, it was the development phase.
“It was the time in Europe that really evolved the brand into what it is now.”
Post-COVID math stopped working
Labor and operating costs climbed, and restaurants answered with fewer servers, less table service, and QR codes. McCoy watched the economics stop adding up.
“The math isn't mathing, you know?”
Copy Paris, not the chain
His answer was the European hole-in-the-wall: one place, one or two people, the chef actually in it, instead of a chef with six restaurants.
“Not only was that the heart and soul of what Alfie's always was, but it felt to me to be the way forward.”
An alley off M Street
They found a gritty 25-seat spot in a Georgetown alleyway where you step down and dodge cars. To McCoy it was the most European corner of D.C. and an instant yes.
“This encapsulates the vibe and the ambiance and the feeling and the energy of what we're trying to do.”
Three people, ninety percent
Ahn, McCoy, and sous chef Ian make up nearly the whole staff. The pop-up mindset did not get left behind in the move.
“It's very much still a pop-up mindset.”
Thirty orders of curry
Twenty-five seats means small batches and a chalkboard menu rewritten around what arrives. Five good seabream from the fishmonger go straight on, no staff retraining needed.
Thai ethos, Mid-Atlantic haul
Thailand's market culture is the brand's rule, applied to what grows and swims nearby: rockfish, soft shell crab, foraged Eastern Shore asparagus, morels.
Wine from 20 minutes away
Most wines by the glass are Virginian, with over 2,000 local producers by the bottle. Bottles mostly run $35 to $75 so nobody dreads the check or plays it safe.
“I want people to come in and just get lost in the experience.”
Nineteen lockers, 700 bookings

The wine club sells 19 racks at $150 a month, with curated bottles at half the usual restaurant markup. The first reservation drop pulled 700 bookings.
“We're very much the antithesis of that.”
The bottom line
A tiny room with the owners cooking in it is not a compromise, it is the business model that still works.





