From Gripped Magazine · Aaron Pardy · · 1m 10s
How Climbing Gym Setters Turn Beginners Into Climbers
Climbing gym setters craft beginner-friendly routes to build confidence and keep climbers returning.
In brief
Climbing gym setters craft beginner-friendly routes to build confidence and keep climbers returning. Climbing gym setters design easy routes with technical movement to teach beginners and encourage repeat visits. Originally reported by Gripped Magazine.
Climbing Gyms as Start Points
Most climbers say their start was in a climbing gym, often through a first-time promo or friend's birthday party.
Not All Gyms Are Equal
Holds on a wall don't automatically lead to good times; gym quality varies significantly.
Setters Curate Climbing Experiences
Skilled setters create satisfying experiences by solving puzzles and refining beta for beginners.
Max Summerlee and Karlo King
Max Summerlee directs routesetting at two Ontario gyms; Karlo King leads Climb Base5 in North Vancouver.
King on Easy Grades
King says setters must create easy grades while introducing technical movement to keep climbing interesting.
Summerlee on Customer Retention
Summerlee notes 66% of climbing gym customers don't return, so setters must teach and build interest to keep climbers coming back.
Teaching Movement Simply
King focuses on one movement at a time, using simple holds to teach fluid heel hook traverses without complex sequences.
The big picture
Climbing gym setters design easy routes with technical movement to teach beginners and encourage repeat visits.
