From Gripped Magazine · Dave Barnes · · 1m
Swedish and Norwegian Climbers Find New Alpine Lines in Nepal
Swedish climber Fredrik Sträng and Norwegian Sindre Kolbjørnsgard reached three first ascents in Nepal's Humla region, including a technical route on Daara Peak.
In brief
Swedish climber Fredrik Sträng and Norwegian Sindre Kolbjørnsgard reached three first ascents in Nepal's Humla region, including a technical route on Daara Peak. Swedish climber Fredrik Sträng and Norwegian Sindre Kolbjørnsgard completed three first ascents in Nepal's Humla region, including a technical route on Daara…
First Ascents in Humla
Swedish climber Fredrik Sträng and Norwegian Sindre Kolbjørnsgard claimed three first ascents in Nepal's remote Humla region.
Daara Peak Challenge
Their standout climb was Daara Peak, a 5,337-metre peak with a technical mixed route graded up to M6.
Snowstorm Impact
Heavy snowfall on September 24, 2026, forced them to abandon the original target and seek previously undocumented peaks.
Successful Ascent
After a weather window, they completed the climb on October 18, 2026, despite initial retreat due to worsening conditions.
Climber Reflection
Sträng noted the exposure was incredible, with the mountain dropping hundreds of metres on one side and the valley far below on the other.
“The exposure was incredible. On one side, the mountain dropped away for hundreds of metres. On the other, the terrain fell away towards the valley far below. The final tooth looked almost impossible to climb from a distance, but incredibly, we managed to place protection all the way to the summit.”
In short
Swedish climber Fredrik Sträng and Norwegian Sindre Kolbjørnsgard completed three first ascents in Nepal's Humla region, including a technical route on Daara Peak.
