From Gripped Magazine · Brandon Pullan · · 1m 20s
New 7-pitch route honors decades of climbing dreams
Les retrouvailles connects two generations of explorers at Quebec's Gros Bonnet cliff.
In brief
Les retrouvailles connects two generations of explorers at Quebec's Gros Bonnet cliff. Gros Bonnet's climbing history spans over 50 years, with new routes often completing visions from earlier generations who lacked modern equipment. Originally reported by Gripped Magazine.
New route honors reunions across decades
Simon Bossé and Francis Lessard established Les retrouvailles, a 236-metre, seven-pitch 5.12+ route on Quebec's Gros Bonnet cliff after more than a year of work.
“Les retrouvailles, or 'the reunions'”
Route completes a 30-year-old vision
Pascal Simard envisioned a line in the same area decades ago, climbing the neighbouring École Buissonnière rope solo. Bossé and Lessard's new route brings together two generations of exploration.
2010s brought wave of new routes
Between 2012 and 2013, climbers added multiple sport and traditional lines including Transcanadienne, De toute beauté, Contrôle parental, Théorie des cordes, and Vol de nuit.
Modern gear unlocked old pitons' potential
In 2009, climbers discovered pitons left by Gaétan Martineau 25 years earlier. Modern cams allowed protection where old pitons couldn't be placed, enabling the first free ascent of L'Examen Final in 2010.
Cliff's history spans over 50 years
Exploration began in the 1970s and 1980s with Gaétan Martineau and friends investigating difficult cracks and vegetation-covered approaches. Later generations returned with better equipment and techniques.
The takeaway
Gros Bonnet's climbing history spans over 50 years, with new routes often completing visions from earlier generations who lacked modern equipment.
